Ko Jum, Here I Come!

On the morning of Wednesday, November 18, 2015, I checked out of Grandmom’s Place in Krabi Town, took my pre-arranged pickup truck to the main pier, and boarded the ferry to Ko Lanta. But I would get off the ferry at the halfway point, at an “open-sea stop.”  A long-tail boat would pull up beside us and I would hop onto that boat, which would take me to shore.  It sounded like something out of a James Bond movie.

Sure enough, that’s about how it went down, but in slow motion, and minus a tuxedo, a British accent, a beautiful woman, and bad guys chasing us.

After I boarded the long-tail boat, we untied the line, and the ferry continued on.  We made a sharp turn to port and headed to shore.  I hopped out, into the breaking waves, with my backpack snug on my back and my flip flops in my hand.  I turned and waved to my smiling captain and crew.  “Thank you!”

I walked about 200 meters up the beach and there it was:  Uza Beach Residence, with its bungalows, hilltop villa, bright orange restaurant, and westward-facing beach with umbrellas, chairs, hammocks, and kayaks.  

This was going to be my home for the next several weeks.

Ben, the property manager, promptly came out to greet me.  He was a young German man who has only been managing the place for a few months, but has been living on Ko Jum for a few years.  He is quickly trying to make renovations and improvements before the high tourism season in December-March. 

And I’m here to help!

Stay tuned to hear about my projects and experiences as we turn this fixer-upper into the resort it was born to be.

The ferry from Krabi to Ko Lanta, overflowing with backpacking tourists.

The ferry from Krabi to Ko Lanta, overflowing with backpacking tourists.

I hopped off the ferry, James-Bond-style, onto a long-tail boat which took me to the smaller, less developed island of Ko Jum.  Notice the captain, in true DBT form, giving a double thumbs up!

I hopped off the ferry, James-Bond-style, onto a long-tail boat which took me to the smaller, less developed island of Ko Jum.  Notice the captain, in true DBT form, giving a double thumbs up!

I made it!  Hello Uza Beach Resort!  I'm so glad to meet you!

I made it!  Hello Uza Beach Resort!  I'm so glad to meet you!

The restaurant and kayaks.

The restaurant and kayaks.

The bungalows (in not-so-good lighting).  

The bungalows (in not-so-good lighting).  

Hard to be Crabby in Krabi

After Ko Yao Yai and Ko Yao Noi, my next stop was the mainland town of Krabi.  I had heard Krabi was nice and figured it was worth stopping for a night or two.

The town itself was a nice combination of bustling Thai retail shops and food markets, intermixed with cafes, restaurants, and backpacker hostels.  There were a couple of neighboring beaches that were supposed to be good, too.

Getting to Krabi turned out to be a bit of an adventure though.  But without any plan or timeline, I was merely amused by these situations rather than stressed out. 

On Monday, November 16, 2015, I took a speedboat from Ko Yao Yai to Krabi.  Easy right?  Wrong.  We ran out of gas halfway there! How that happened, I have no idea.  That said, these multi-engine speedboats do suck up the gas:  200 liters a day, is what the captain said. 

The captain called for a second boat to bring us fuel, then he and his 2-man crew whipped out makeshift fishing lines and started fishing, as if it was a perfectly normal day.  It was hilarious!  Meanwhile, some of the passengers were getting nervous as they had planes or buses to catch.  As for me, I just sat back and enjoyed watching the scene unfold.  I certainly didn’t mind the quiet drifting (kind of like sailing) instead of the thunderous roar of the three 250 horsepower engines we had on board.  The crew didn’t catch any fish, but I was amazed at how calm they were despite the risk of disappointed passengers.   You might say they were opportunistic, using the down time to do something productive.

Upon arriving at the pier at Ao Nang (adjacent to Krabi), my adventure continued.  I had to find my hotel in Krabi, about 30 minutes away over land.  I had the address and cross streets, but that was it.   I was too budget conscious to just hire a taxi, though that certainly would have been the easiest and “old Dan” solution. 

Instead, I asked my speedboat captain and he pointed to an intersection and said “Bus.”   The bus turned out to be just a pickup truck with bench seating in the back.  I hopped on for 50 baht (about $1.50) and hoped for the best, not having any idea about the route or where to get off. 

I knew Krabi was about 30 minutes from the pier.  So I set my watch and at the 30 minute mark, I jumped out of the pickup (at a stoplight).

It would have been easy to just hop into an internet café and update google maps, but for some reason I was too stubborn to do that.  I just asked a few people for directions to my hotel and then walked a bit, then asked a few more people and walked again.  After about 45 minutes, I finally found it.  Turns out it was actually very close to where I originally got off the pickup truck!  Clearly I got a series of only semi-accurate directions. 

My hotel was called “Grandmom Place,” and turned out to be decent, in a great location, and only $28/night.

That evening, I just parked myself at Mr. Krab-I restaurant, where I met the owner Max.  He’s an ex-sailor and rigger so we talked for quite a while.  He was a very interesting guy, having worked on America’s Cup boats, Wally yachts, etc.

I spent the next day back at Ao Nang beach.  It was quite pretty, especially the very small island just a few hundred yards offshore.  (I swam, well waded, there.)  

After a swim and lunch, I headed back to the hotel via pickup truck.  It was another adventure.  This time, although I had a vague idea where my hotel was, the driver was going so fast that I found it difficult to orient myself.  I guessed again, and guessed wrong.  I ended up walking in the pouring rain for 30 minutes.

That evening, I headed to the night market and was tempted to indulge in all of the street food that was super cheap (e.g., a plate of pad thai for a dollar).  After some stomach troubles in Bangkok, I withstood the temptation and instead headed to Viva Restaurant to meet Renato, a friend of Max from last night.  Renato was super nice, and my vegetarian pizza was outstanding.   His restaurant was nice, clean, and friendly.

I closed the night with some live music at a bar near my hotel.  But I didn’t stay out late because the next day I would head to Ko Jum, and that’s where the real adventure would begin.  I would meet my host, see my new “home,” and learn about exactly what volunteering work I would be doing.

Out of gas?  No problem.  Let's go fishing for a while.

Out of gas?  No problem.  Let's go fishing for a while.

The beach at Ao Nang.  Nice, but I've seen nicer.  I took a swim out to those rocks.

The beach at Ao Nang.  Nice, but I've seen nicer.  I took a swim out to those rocks.

This picture doesn't do it justice, but the night market in Krabi is fantastic if you want an authentic and inexpensive Thai dinner.

This picture doesn't do it justice, but the night market in Krabi is fantastic if you want an authentic and inexpensive Thai dinner.

Yai or Noi?

As I mentioned in my last post, I decided to put my Phuket sailing plans on hold and pursue a volunteer opportunity on the island of Ko Jum. I told my host, Ben, that I would arrive on Ko Jum in about a week.  I wanted to take my time getting there, and visit a few other islands along the way.  The following are a few highlights from the week.

(Note:  After talking with a fellow traveler and more experienced blogger, I may shift the focus of my writing in future posts.  We’ll see.  She was certainly inspiring.  Check out www.ninaseetheworld.com)

On the morning of Thursday, November 12, 2015, I headed to the pier in Phuket Town and arranged for a speedboat to take me to the island of Ko Yao Yai.  Rumors indicated that this island was quieter, less developed, and less touristy than some of the other islands.  It sounded great to me.

After a 30-minute boat ride and 5-minute drive in the back of a pickup, I arrived at my hotel – Baan Taranya – located about halfway down the eastern coast of Ko Yao Yai.  Once again, I lucked out with my hotel choice.  Baan Taranya was fabulous!  My room was perfect, with a sliding glass door entry, air conditioning, and modern bathroom.  The property included a restaurant, pool, and a beach bar that was still under construction. I was tempted to offer my labor in exchange for the room, but decided to spend my time exploring the island rather than working.

So I rented a motorbike, and for the next 3 days I drove around the island, as well as its neighboring sister island Ko Yao Noi, just to the north.  Similar in layout, both islands have one main paved road, with narrower dirt roads that branch off and lead to beaches, fishing villages, mangroves, or in some cases private residences or resorts.  It was nearly impossible to get lost, or so I thought.  Let’s just say that in a few cases it took me longer than expected to get to my destination.

At several points during my motorbike adventure, I found secluded beaches where the only footprints were mine.  It was amazing, and in stark contrast to some of the beaches I visited later in my trip.  My favorite beach was about 1/2 mile long, with fine grain white sand and a big tree at one end casting a cool shadow on the sand.  Not being a major sun-bather, I enjoyed sitting under the protection of this tree, soaking in the view and fantasizing that I was on one of the sailboats I saw gliding silently along the horizon.  I nicknamed the spot “Crabby Point” because the sand seemed to be alive with hermit crabs crawling around.

At the southern end of Ko Yao Yai, after a few kilometers of riding along a bumpy dirt road, I found a remote fishing village that clearly had not seen many tourists.  I parked my motorbike and walked down the road.  I might as well have been walking back in time.  I bought a Fanta from a woman basically selling beverages out of her house, and sat on some steps to take it all in:  the weathered houses on stilts, the long-tail boats with colorful ribbons around their pointy bows, the women in full Muslim garments, the assortment of fishing and crabbing gear stacked along the docks.  There were a lot of children running around the streets and playing along the shoreline.  They would giggle a “Hello” to me and then scurry away.

To explore the sister island Ko Yao Noi, I paid some gentlemen to load my motorbike onto their long tail boat and take me across the channel. This second island was smaller, yet more developed and more touristy than Ko Yao Yai.  Pasai Beach was nice, lined with bungalows to rent and palm trees to sit under.  Following a long dirt road, I found Paradise Resort which was quite impressive, and exclusive.  On the western part of the island, I found a fishing village with a couple of seafood restaurants – but unfortunately I had already eaten.  These high points aside, I was very glad that I was staying on the more rustic and authentic Ko Yao Yai.  In fact, I cut my day on Ko Yao Noi short, and headed back across the channel so that I could enjoy one more afternoon at Crabby Point.  

By Monday, November 16, 2015, having exhausted my land-based exploration options, I rented a long tail boat (with a 2-man crew) and toured a few of the very small neighboring islands.  This was a bit disappointing, as the islands we visited were clearly part of a standard tourist route.  The beaches were lined with long-tail boats and packed with tourists wielding selfie-sticks and snorkeling gear.

There were a couple of islands on the half-day tour that are worthy of noting. 

The island of Ko Hong consisted of towering cliffs rising out of the water, yet they hid a shallow lagoon in the middle of the island.  The lagoon was accessible only through a narrow entrance, wide enough for two boats to pass side-by-side. Unfortunately due to the recent rains and wind the water was too cloudy for snorkeling, but I did enjoy a dip in the warm water.    

We also stopped at an island that couldn’t have been more than 2 kilometers of shoreline – perhaps too small for the big tourist groups to visit.  But we pulled right up on the beach (which may not be there during high tide).  My captain and I jumped out, and he led me up a steep trail to the top of the limestone cliff.  This gave us a fantastic 360-degree view of the islands.  I snapped a few photos and video, and then climbed back down… all the while nervous that I was in flip flops.

After about 4 hours, we headed back to Ko Yao Yai.  I had a speedboat to catch that afternoon, which would take me over to Krabi – my next stop on my route to Ko Jum. 

Knowing that I had checked out of my hotel, the captain offered to take me to his house so that I could shower and eat lunch before my trip to Krabi.  I respectfully declined, saying that I would just shower once at my hotel in Krabi.  He understood, but he still insisted that he give me a free ride on the back of his motorbike to the pier.  So he dropped me at the pier and we said goodbye.  Or so I thought. 

Thirty minutes later, the captain returned with a box of chicken fried rice and a bottle of water for me!  He and his friend waited for another thirty minutes while I ate, and made sure I got on the right speed boat to Krabi.  I was touched by his thoughtfulness, generosity, and genuine care for my well-being.  The longer I am in Thailand, I realize this is the norm, not the exception.  The people here are amazing.

My speedboat arrived at 3:30pm that afternoon, and I said goodbye to Ko Yao Yai – a hidden treasure of Thailand.  Let’s keep it our little secret.

Only my footprints in the sand.  I didn't see a single person on the beach the whole afternoon.

Only my footprints in the sand.  I didn't see a single person on the beach the whole afternoon.

A local fisherman.

A local fisherman.

My boat-trip crew who exemplified Thai customer-service and genuine friendliness by bringing me lunch and water before my trip to Krabi.  Thanks guys! 

My boat-trip crew who exemplified Thai customer-service and genuine friendliness by bringing me lunch and water before my trip to Krabi.  Thanks guys! 

One of the many amazing sunsets.

One of the many amazing sunsets.

The 360-degree view from the top of an island!

The 360-degree view from the top of an island!

Dinner on the beach at sunset - grilled prawns cooked right in front of me, and a mango shake!.

Dinner on the beach at sunset - grilled prawns cooked right in front of me, and a mango shake!.

Aw Phuket

I arrived in Phuket on the afternoon of Monday, November 9, and planned to head to the southern end of the island.  I had heard that cruisers often stop in Chalong Bay and that a few yacht clubs had sprouted as a result.

My trip south on Phuket was quite an adventure.  My cab driver was a lunatic, driving at twice the speed limit, passing on blind curves, driving on the shoulder, and driving without headlights. When we arrived at my hotel, he turned to me and said, “Good driver, huh?  Tip for me?”  I tipped him, but just because I was grateful to be alive!

I checked into the beachfront hotel, Kantary Bay Hotel, where I had made advance reservations.  The friendly staff showed me to my room, which was an amazing suite with a living room, kitchen, and huge balcony overlooking the swimming pool directly below, and the island-freckled Andaman Sea beyond.  I also received access to the neighboring, upper-scale sister hotel, Cape Panwa Hotel, whose best feature in my opinion was the piano bar and the complementary 2 free drinks.  It was a great deal for just $60/night.

I spent the next two days exploring the area by foot and by motorbike, and visited a few local sailing organizations along the way.   Exploring by motorbike was very fun, except I had to be very careful since they drive on the left over here.

The first day I met with Chris, from www.day-sailing-phuket.com.  He was very nice but unfortunately the news he had for me was not what I wanted to hear:  I was too early in the season, and even at “high season” there just is not that much activity. In addition, most of the sailing is on catamarans, which I don’t have any experience on.  He referred me to a couple other sailing organizations that I could check out the next day.

The second day, I rented a motorbike and visited two more organizations.  The Phuket Yacht Club at Chalong Bay had good facilities and beachfront bar operation.  Unfortunately, the manager delivered the same message as Chris:  too early.  After downing a delicious mango shake at their bar, I left a notice on the bulletin board to broadcast my availability as crew. 

Next, I went to the Phuket Cruising Club, which was a bit hard to find.  This basically turned out to be a beachfront bar with a sign out front that said “Phuket Cruising Club”.   I wasn’t sure if it was just a joke, or if some activity did happen here periodically.  While waiting for the owner to return from errands, I enjoyed a beer and soaked in the view.  The owner never showed.  So, with a slight sense of defeat after two days of poking around, I hopped on the motorbike and headed back along the windy road to my hotel.

On the way back to the hotel, I weighed my options.  (A) Wait around in Phuket for a couple of weeks, hoping that the sailing activity picks up?  (B) Put sailing on hold, and continue my journey, pursuing one of the volunteer opportunities I’ve found on www.helpx.net?   In either case, I could still monitor sailing opportunities via www.findacrew.net.

I chose option (B).  I would feel better moving on and doing something productive, knowing that sailing will eventually come.  So I decided to leave Phuket in the morning. 

I would head to a small, lesser-known island, Ko Jum, to help the management at Uza-Beach Residence.  There was no direct route, which was fine with me.  A bit of island-hopping sounded fun.

So the next morning I hired a taxi to take me to Phuket Town (thankfully with a safer driver this time).  Upon arriving, I walked down to the bustling Bang Rong Pier and chatted to the locals about hiring a boat to take me to my next island adventure... 

The view from the boardwalk outside my hotel at Cape Panwa.

The view from the boardwalk outside my hotel at Cape Panwa.

Classic long-tail boat at sunset.

Classic long-tail boat at sunset.

Young sailor making sure the beach anchor lines are secure.

Young sailor making sure the beach anchor lines are secure.

Daytime view from the boardwalk in front of hotel.

Daytime view from the boardwalk in front of hotel.

I've been drinking a lot of fruit shakes.  Mango.  Banana-pineapple.  Even blueberry.

I've been drinking a lot of fruit shakes.  Mango.  Banana-pineapple.  Even blueberry.

My posting at Phuket Yacht Club.

My posting at Phuket Yacht Club.

This "yacht club" wasn't very official looking...or very crowded.

This "yacht club" wasn't very official looking...or very crowded.

One Night in Bangkok

Well, it was actually 8 nights.  (And upon arriving at the quiet, tranquil, southern end of Phuket, I realized maybe I stayed in Bangkok a few days too many.  But, let's back up...)

I arrived in Bangkok on Sunday, November 1, 2015, after the short 2-day stay in Hong Kong (See "Halloween in Hong Kong" post).  Per my visa, I have 60 days in Thailand overall, and am starting with these 7 days in Bangkok.   My length of stay in Bangkok was influenced by my friends' and family's schedule of arrivals and departures.  I probably wouldn't have stayed so long otherwise.

Regardless, as it turned out, I was quite impressed by Bangkok (and Thailand) so far.  Yes, the city is hot, dirty, and noisy, and the traffic is nuts.  But the people are so kind, helpful, and polite.  And despite the traffic, there are multiple ways to get around town – normal taxi, bus, 3-wheel tuk tuk, on the back of a scooter, or (my favorite) the elevated Sky Train.

I’m also relieved that it is much cheaper than Hong Kong (and the U.S.) although admittedly I haven’t taken full advantage of it yet.  You see, my friend Bala has been here for a few nights, as well as his friend (and now my friend) Kaspar.   To maximize social time, I deviated from my planned thrifty route, and booked a room at their hotel, Courtyard by Marriott.  We enjoyed a few nights out at upper end locations that serve at roughly U.S. prices.  For a couple of nights mid-week, I switched hotels to LeFenix at Soi 11 – for a change of scenery and budget management. It was 1/3 the price of the Marriott (and yes probably 1/3 as nice).

There was a second social rendezvous this week – my parents were actually in town as part of their group tour of Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand!  They were staying at the fancy Shangri-La Hotel.  I met them (as well as quite a few of their tour group members) both Thursday and Friday for happy hour at the hotel.

By Saturday, my parents and friends had all left, and I had booked my flight on Monday to Phuket.  At that point, I will get back on budget and also get going on my volunteering and/or sailing efforts.

Other than these social outings, the week was full of simply exploring the streets of Bangkok.  I spent one day wandering around the Grand Palace and nearby temples, one of which housed a huge “Reclining Buddha.”  I took a ride on the Chao Praya river in a long boat, enjoying the spray of the waves hitting my face in the heat…until I started thinking about how clean (or not clean) the water is.  I wandered around random streets, looking for knick-knacks and researching the price/process for getting a custom suit or shirts made.  (In the end, I opted to wait until my return to Bangkok in December.)  On the weekend, I meandered through the huge outdoor market at the north end of town and bought a few souvenirs.

The food was also amazing.  Several days we took advantage of the heavy appetizers at the hotel happy hour.  But we also ate out several times at a few traditional Thai restaurants (Mazarro, Erawan Tea Room, and Queen of Curry, to name a few).  And we spent one evening at a cool Jazz restaurant/bar.  As tempting as it looks, I have been doing my best to avoid "street food".  Though one night Kaspar and I indulged in "Taco Taxi" tacos (which was Bangkok's version of a taco truck, I guess.  Needless to say, my stomach isn't feeling 100%, but I think I'll survive.

On Monday morning, November 9, I caught a flight to the island of Phuket, where I will look for sailing opportunities.  As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, I am relieved to be out of the craziness of Bangkok.  As different as it is, the big city nature of it still just reminds me of being back home at work and not really "getting away".

The Grand Palace

The Grand Palace

My new friend.

My new friend.

This was the inside of a taxi we took.  Complete with disco lights, disco ball, and music turned up ALL the way.  Man it was loud!

This was the inside of a taxi we took.  Complete with disco lights, disco ball, and music turned up ALL the way.  Man it was loud!

I've had some amazing food here!

I've had some amazing food here!



Halloween in Hong Kong

From San Francisco, I had to fly through Hong Kong to get to Thailand, so I decided to spend a couple of days there, including Halloween.  

I hiked up to "The Peak" for a great view of the city, while watching 99.9% of the tourists take the cable car up the steep incline.  There were a few amazing mansions nestled on the hillside. 

I also strolled through Hong Kong Park, including the aviary, and poked along the crowded streets window shopping and people watching.

I was lucky to have a couple of friends in town as well, who showed me particular neighborhoods, restaurants, bars, and in one case, a private social club with an amazing view of the harbor.

Then came Halloween.  My friends had left.  So I was on my own.  At first I was going to avoid it, but then I thought, "What the hell...why NOT go to the most crowded, wild place, just to say I did."  That was the famous Lan Kwai Fong (LKF) district.

What a mob scene it was.  Wow.  First, a long line of costume-clad pedestrians wound through the barricaded streets just to enter the fenced-off LKF district.  Second, we funnelled through a heavily guarded entrance.  Third, once inside, the first 100 meters or so was like the Red Carpet at the Academy Awards.  The sidewalk was lined with photographers (some definitely amateur, maybe some professional) who snapped away at the funny, fancy, grotesque, and/or sexy costumes.  

I was not in costume.  (My first costume-less Halloween in as long as I can remember.)  So I felt a little weird walking the Red Carpet.  At one point, just to be funny, I threw up my hands as to indicate "Hey, what about me?  Doesn't anyone want a picture of ME?"  And immediately the camera-wielding crowd thought that was funny, and snapped away at me.  It turned out to be a long night and a mess getting home.  But I made it.

Overall, Hong Kong was a lot of fun.  But then again, by the third day, I was ready to leave and get on with my journey in Thailand. 

The view from "The Peak" in Hong Kong.

The view from "The Peak" in Hong Kong.

In Hong Kong Park...

In Hong Kong Park...

A bird nibbles on some treats in Hong Kong Park aviary.

A bird nibbles on some treats in Hong Kong Park aviary.

The "red carpet" treatment in the LFK district in Hong Kong on Halloween.

The "red carpet" treatment in the LFK district in Hong Kong on Halloween.

A New Beginning

Today is the day.  A new beginning. The real deal.  I'm headed to southeast Asia on a one-way ticket.  

My plan is to visit Hong Kong, Thailand, Myanmar, and Cambodia.  But that's it.  That's where the plan stops.  I don't know what I'm going to see, where I'm going to stay, what I'm going to do, how I will get around, where I will go after that, or when exactly I will return to the United States.

Of course, I have a few general objectives.  I want to volunteer.  I want to sail.  I want to use local transportation to get from point A to B.  I want to take a path less traveled, and stay away from heavy tourist areas.  I want to work on my photography skills.  I want to improve this site.

I will continue to search www.helpx.net and www.findacrew.net to identify opportunities for volunteering or sailing.  I also plan to loiter around marinas or beach areas in search of skippers needing crew or boats needing maintenance.

I have two small backpacks.  One with clothes (about 5 outfits, a waterproof layer, and sleep sack), and one with electronics (computer, DSLR, GoPro, external hard drive, and a backup iPhone).  Whatever I've forgotten, I will buy on the road.  Whatever I have that I don't need, I will give away.

As I mentioned in my last post, Chile was familiar territory and a huge success as a trial run.  Now, even though I have been to parts of Asia before, I really feel like I am venturing into the unknown... 

Anything could happen.  I could do anything.  And that's an amazing feeling.

Traveling as light as possible for a trip of unknown length... 

Traveling as light as possible for a trip of unknown length... 

Rest, Recovery, Relaunch

I returned from Germany on October 6 to regroup and prepare for my upcoming 3-month trip to southeast Asia.  This will be the first major leg of my journey.  Chile was a test run, in a country that I'm familiar with and in a language that I speak.  (And Germany was just a normal vacation with friends.) 

I haven’t had a lot to write about these last few weeks, as I take care of some administrative things:  applying for travel visas, paying utility bills, servicing cars, researching volunteer opportunities in southeast Asia, etc. 

I have enjoyed catching up with some of you in person or online.  In our conversations, many of you have commented, "Oh, I'm so jealous" or "You're living the life I want."  

Ah, life on the road seems glamorous, doesn’t it?

Yes, sometimes it is.  I enjoy the leisurely pace of not really needing to be anywhere or do anything.  For example, last week instead of taking the bus or UBER to my destination, I just strolled across San Francisco in my flip flops, enjoying the sights and sounds (and amazing October weather).  And I’m certainly looking forward to relaxing among the islands of southeast Asia. 

But recently, there have been plenty of non-glamorous moments as I try to live "homeless" in one of the most expensive areas in the country.  I’ve changed clothes in my car, done laundry at the laundromat, eaten lunch in the grocery store, and “borrowed” WIFI while parked outside Starbucks to avoid buying a second cup of coffee.  (I'm on a budget, remember.)

I would like to publicly thank several friends who have hosted me at their homes (or boats) so that I can avoid hotels and Airbnb.  And I’m grateful to so many more friends who have made similar offers.  (Rain check?)

In a couple of days, I depart for Hong Kong, and then Thailand.  I don’t have any plan, as of yet – other than to meet my parents for dinner in Bangkok.  (Crazy, but they will be there at the same time as me!)  From Thailand, I may venture into Cambodia and/or Myanmar as well.

As for volunteering and sailing, I’ve decided to figure it out once I’m there.  In particular, for sailing, I want to make sure I meet the skipper and inspect the sailing vessel in person before hopping aboard.   For volunteering, Chile was a huge success and I expect the same from Thailand.  I am less familiar with the country, so I want to do some exploring before I commit to a certain location for extended volunteering.

See you in 2016, San Francisco!

 

 

 

Reunion in Bavaria

I spent the last week in Germany, on what has become an every-other-year (at least) reunion of friends.   Adam and Ulf are friends of mine from business school.  Over the years of hanging out with Ulf in Germany for skiing, hiking, and celebrating birthdays, I have become friends with several of his close friends as well.   

I arrived in Munich, Germany, on Sunday, September 27.  I took the train from the airport directly to Oktoberfest (locally known as Wiesn) where I met Uli, my gracious host for the week.  We ditched my bag in the bushes at a friend’s office building (shhh… don’t tell anyone) and headed into our favorite beer tent. 

Even though this was my fifth visit to Wiesn, I was still as excited as the first time.  There is just something about it.

  • Is it the traditional Bavarian outfits that people wear so proudly?
  • Is it the songs that the band plays and the crowd sings along to?
  • Is it the immense decorative wooden tents that fill with laughter, cheering, and singing?
  • Is it the neighborly feeling that allows you, in fact welcomes you, to join a table of strangers?
  • Is it the endless supply of beer, roasted chicken, and pretzels that come in huge portions?

One thing is for certain - my friends always show me a great time.  I really appreciate going with them.  I feel like I get a much more authentic experience hanging out with “locals” (even though some of them are actually from northern Germany).  They navigate our group into the best tents, with the best beer, food, and crowds.  

We have come up with a list of “Rules of Wiesn” that we like to remind each other of, should a violation occur.  I won’t repeat the entire list here, but in case any of you readers are thinking about a visit to Wiesn in the future, here are a few of our rules:

  1. Don’t buy stuff.  (E.g., souvenirs, rabbit ears, etc.)
  2. Never finish your beer.  (It's probably warm by the time you get to the bottom.)
  3. Never pour the remnants of your old beer into your new beer.  (Why contaminate fresh cold beer with your warm stale beer remnants?)
  4. Eat.
  5. Hold your beer the “right” way.  (i.e., Hold the mug (called a mass) with your left hand, so that as you drink, your lips touch the mass at a spot on the rim where fewer lips have touched.  Most people drink with their favored right hand.  Alternatively, you can hold with your right hand, but twist the mass a bit so you drink from the spot just above the handle, thereby also avoiding the most common spot on the rim.  We’re sure the masses are clean, but then again you never know.  Also, if you are a man, NEVER hold the mass with the palm of your hand – use the handle to show that you are strong enough to hold the heavy mass.)

We spent four days at Wiesn, which was plenty from both a health and financial standpoint.

Over the four days, our group of friends trickled in from other parts of Germany.  By Thursday, all seven of us were here, so we started the second part of our week:  a hiking trip in Austria.

On Thursday afternoon, we made the 90-minute drive to Pertisau, Austria, for hiking in the Alps.  The town itself is small, nestled in a valley at the edge of a lake called Achensee. We stayed at the Einwaller Hotel, which included breakfasts and dinners.

We took two long hikes over the weekend.  The first hike included a 3-hour ascent to a 2,000 meter peak, which gave us a spectacular 360 degree view.  It was beautiful but also pretty windy and cold.  We stayed there long enough for lunch, but then headed back down a different trail, which turned out to be a bit longer and more technical.

The second day we took a longer but easier route, which still had magnificent views.   We stopped at a couple of huts along the way.  At the first hut, we had buttermilk, a traditional drink in this part of Austria.  At the second hut, we had weissbier and schnapps while enjoying the view and warm sunshine. 

On Sunday, we drove back to Berg, changed our clothes and headed off to Wiesn for the final night of the festival.  It was a great time to have all of us (plus a few other friends) together for that final night.

Needless to say, today has been day of rest, recovery, and rehydration.  And saying goodbye to great friends.  Danke!

On the Road Again

After flying back from Chile on Tuesday, I spent the next 3 days in the San Francisco Bay Area doing laundry, changing gear, reading mail, and seeing a few friends.  I even got to go on an overnight sailing trip in the Bay! 

Without a house to return to, I bounced around from hotel, to AirBnB, to boat... So even though I was "home," it didn't exactly feel like it.  Fortunately, my stay was only a few days.  It will be interesting to see what happens when I return in October for possibly three weeks!  A few friends have been gracious enough to offer me a room.  (Thank you!)

I'm now at the San Francisco International Airport waiting for my flight to Munich, Germany, connecting through London.  I am excited because I have friends in Germany that are always so fun to hang out with, especially during Oktoberfest, or Wiesn as the locals call it.  I've lost track, but I think this will be my 5th time at Wiesn.  We will spend a few days drinking beer and eating rotisserie chicken, then work it all off with a hike in the Alps.  

Something tells me maybe we should reverse the order of events next time...Nevertheless, I'm happy to be on the road again.

I'm testing out a couple new items in my kit.  First, I have a new primary backpack that is carry-on size.  Against my own sense of aesthetics and style, this pack is more of a traveling-backpack than a backpacking-backpack.  I guess I'm getting a little older so function is ruling over form.  Second, after a month of being cold in Chile, I invested in a new mid-weight fleece hoodie from Arc'teryx as my day to day outer wear, plus I'm bringing my lightweight down vest.  These, in addition to my full waterproof pants and jacket, will be great on the hike.  Third, I'm leaving my big DSLR camera (and its special small pack) at home, and instead I'm bringing my CamelBak as my second bag.  This will also be useful on the hike, whereas I didn't want to lug my DSLR around on the hike (or Wiesn, for that matter).  

When I have time, maybe I'll publish a short list of my entire kit.  (I've read a few adventure books and that seems to be something that is often included in the appendix.)  Perhaps I'll do that in November, when the third and longest leg of my journey begins.  

For now, it's time to catch my flight...  Servus!

Sunset over San Francisco Bay on Friday night, the evening before my departure to Munich, Germany.  Spent the night anchored in a cove on "Miss T," my favorite Beneteau 37.

Sunset over San Francisco Bay on Friday night, the evening before my departure to Munich, Germany.  Spent the night anchored in a cove on "Miss T," my favorite Beneteau 37.




Not Goodbye, Just "Hasta Luego"

I’m back in the Bay Area now, lounging by the pool at the Sheraton Palo Alto, thanks to a friend who was willing to share his suite with me.  I'm in a bit of culture shock going from remote Isla Tenglo to the heart of Silicon Valley in just 24 hours.  (I avoided the long bus ride and just flew up to Santiago from Puerto Montt, which shaved at least 12 hours off the trip home.)  Anyway, I figured I'd make a final post about life on Isla Tenglo:

After 25 days on Isla Tenglo and the surrounding islands, I spent my last night at Casa Roja in front of the wood-burning stove with a glass of wine reflecting on my first volunteering travel experience.   

My immediate thought was how lucky I was to have Christian as my host.  He provided me with an experience that was exactly what I was looking for:  a combination of volunteering, sailing, and adventure.  A lot of people have asked me, “How did you find and decide on Isla Tenglo?”  It was because Christian offered these three elements via his post on www.helpx.net, and he delivered big time.

The volunteering opportunities were meaningful and appropriately leveled for a city slicker like me:  painting, gardening, pruning, hauling, teaching English, etc.  I enjoyed the physical aspect, and luckily nothing required sophisticated skills in carpentry, plumbing, or electrical.   Christian allowed me to choose from a variety of options, and was flexible with my preferences.  I enjoyed helping the local families, being invited into their homes for breakfasts and lunches, and learning about their daily lives.

The sailing-related opportunities were equally fantastic.  Working with David at Club Nautico Reloncavi, I had the chance to learn more about the mechanics and systems of big cruising boats.  Plus we went on three different weekend sailing trips down to Isla Puluqui with Christian and his family to work on their vacation cottage.  These were fun trips highlighted by bonfires, barbecues, and a true group effort on renovating the cottage.

The adventure aspect of the experience was the most challenging but one that I was able to overcome.  By the third week, I had even fallen into a pretty comfortable routine. 

The days themselves weren’t very long.  I was usually awake at 8am, ate breakfast with one of the families around 10am, and worked until about 5pm (stopping for lunch).  If I was on the mainland, I would stick around and use the yacht club’s internet or go shopping until 7pm, and then take one of the last boat taxis home by 8pm (which was sort of like a curfew).  No crazy bar hopping or socializing because the island is entirely residential (with only a few hundred people, I’ve now learned).  I was usually in bed with a book by 10pm.  ("Walking the Amazon" and "Godforsaken Sea").

Although I was awake for only 12-14 hours, they were tough hours:  fighting the cold wind and rain, doing physical labor that my body was not used to, and managing my emotions as I coped with the isolation.  Little things like laundry or sponge-showers (heating hot water on the stove and then using it to bathe) took longer than I was used to.  I learned to plan ahead – making sure I knew what I was going to do with those few minutes of WIFI at the Club, and making sure I had a shopping list for the store on the mainland.   If I forgot to do or buy something, I couldn’t just run out later on a quick errand.  

In the end, I felt good about my adaptation and would have liked to stay – especially because the weather was getting warmer with the approach of summer, and I was getting the hang of things.  I will miss Isla Tenglo and Isla Puluqui, Casa Roja, Christian, and his family. 

But I have to move on to the next adventure.  Germany is next.  I depart on Saturday, September 26.  Then I’m targeting Southeast Asia in November/December.  Then perhaps in January I will return to visit my new friends in Southern Chile.

I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t excited for at least a few days back in San Francisco this week to re-connect with friends, do some sailing, and take care of nagging administrative things.   It does, however, feel a bit weird to be coming ‘home’ yet to be homeless.  (Remember, I've rented my house!)  I'll be ok, thanks to friends and/or AirBnB.

Here are a few final photos from my last week on Isla Tenglo and Isla Puluqui...  

A rainbow over Casa Roja.

A rainbow over Casa Roja.

The cottage on Isla Puluqui:  BEFORE our work.

The cottage on Isla Puluqui:  BEFORE our work.

The cottage on Isla Puluqui:  AFTER our work.

The cottage on Isla Puluqui:  AFTER our work.

I was really getting into my work, and so I bought an official outfit of protective gear!

I was really getting into my work, and so I bought an official outfit of protective gear!

The view doesn't get much better than this... on our way back to Isla Tenglo from Isla Puluqui.  Volcanoes Osorno and Calbuco, under some cool cloud formations.

The view doesn't get much better than this... on our way back to Isla Tenglo from Isla Puluqui.  Volcanoes Osorno and Calbuco, under some cool cloud formations.

We had a couple of barbecues on the boat with fabulous carne and sides (thanks Christian, Lali, David, and Kata).   One in the evening, accompanied by wine and Christian's singing.  One in the afternoon, as we baked in the warm sun (at las…

We had a couple of barbecues on the boat with fabulous carne and sides (thanks Christian, Lali, David, and Kata).   One in the evening, accompanied by wine and Christian's singing.  One in the afternoon, as we baked in the warm sun (at last)!  We topped off each meal with this amazing cake -- some kind of dulce de leche, raspberry, and whip cream layered cake.


Week Three Was a Big One, Literally

My third and final week on Isla Tenglo was quite exciting – perhaps more than I really wanted.

First, I was lucky to spend two days working on an 82-foot Swan sailboat.  It wasn’t exactly easy work.  I learned an important lesson:  the bigger the boat, the bigger (and heavier) the work.  It took four of us, plus an electric winch, to haul the sails out of the storage unit and onto the yacht.  The mast on this beauty was 120 feet tall, so you can imagine the amount of sail we were dealing with!  We lifted the sails on deck, inserted battens, secured the foot, hooked on the halyards, pre-fed the bolt rope, and hoisted the sails during a test sail out the channel.  Unfortunately this was all work, no play, so as soon as we hoisted to test the sails, we then furled them and returned to the marina.  On our return, we bought 2.5 tons of diesel fuel which was another ordeal altogether.  That must have been a big gas bill!  (Perhaps this little excursion was my 15 minutes of fame.  As I stood on deck, the locals would maneuver their motorboats alongside us to take a picture and maybe see if anyone famous was on this mega yacht.  Nope, sorry, it's just DBT).

Second, on Wednesday night, as I was relaxing at home, I received an emergency “Presidential Alert” warning of tsunamis.  Without cell phone, WIFI, or TV access, I had no idea what was going only.  I just poured another glass of wine and hoped I was safe in Casa Roja, about 100 feet above sea level.  The next morning I found out that there was a 8.3 earthquake in Santiago!  Yikes.   That’s not exactly the kind of excitement I was looking for.  Amazingly, it sounded like casualties were a lot fewer than what you might expect.  I learned through talking to people that Chile is very well prepared for earthquakes, structurally and socially.  The tsunami alert worked very well from what I gather.   (A 5.8 aftershock just hit again as I sit here in the Santiago airport at a restaurant typing this!  Yet there is no panic.  People just continue eating.  One or two people grab hold of something, but that’s it.  And they look like tourists anyway.)

Third, Friday was September 18, or “Dieciocho,” which is the day Chile celebrates its independence from Spain back in 1810.  Official independence didn’t happen until April of 1818.  I celebrated with Christian, Lali, and their family back on Isla Puluqui.  For the third weekend in a row, we worked on their cottage, but also took time out for some great hikes, bonfires, and barbecues.  This weekend, in particular, we were treated by some of Christian’s singing.

It was a great week.  I spent Sunday night and Monday morning cleaning Casa Roja.  I have mixed feelings about leaving.  More on that in my next post …

You know it's a big boat when you can sit, or take a nap, in the boom....

You know it's a big boat when you can sit, or take a nap, in the boom....

... or when it has two steering wheels.

... or when it has two steering wheels.

Without WIFI or cell phone reception, but I still received the Presidential Alert warning of tsunamis.  

Without WIFI or cell phone reception, but I still received the Presidential Alert warning of tsunamis.  

Another weekend on Isla Puluqui working on the cottage.  I hope I get invited back to enjoy it during summer!

Another weekend on Isla Puluqui working on the cottage.  I hope I get invited back to enjoy it during summer!

The view from our sunset hike on Isla Puluqui... My hosts' sailboats and island cottage in the distance.  Total paradise!  There is a vacant lot here for sale that has piqued my interest... 

The view from our sunset hike on Isla Puluqui... My hosts' sailboats and island cottage in the distance.  Total paradise!  There is a vacant lot here for sale that has piqued my interest... 


Variety is the Spice of Life

Life on the island continues to be tough, absent of many of the conveniences I have taken for granted for so long. 

I find myself focusing a lot of energy on simply keeping warm, eating well, and staying clean. And I've learned to be more opportunistic and resourceful:  planning activities around weather, boat taxi schedules, and tides (the tidal change here is sometimes 20 feet!).  I've come up with some pretty creative dinners utilizing the dried or canned food available at the island store.

Yet when I look back and think about what I accomplished this week, it goes way beyond the basics.  I helped local families with:

  • Hauling dirt, garbage, and broken glass from the island to mainland
  • Weeding a garden
  • Cutting firewood
  • Teaching English
  • Cleaning a sailboat inside and outside
  • Digging a ditch for electrical and water pipes
  • Building scaffolding
  • Painting two houses

On top of that, I was fortunate enough to take another 3-day sailing trip to the island of Puluqui where we barbecued and had a bonfire on the beach at sunset.

Admittedly, after spending 15 years sitting at a desk, punching a keyboard, and navigating a mouse, my body is screaming at me.  (Ok maybe just "talking loudly" to me.)  I am suffering from tennis elbow, a jammed thumb, bruised ribs, and 3 cracked, bleeding fingertips from the dry, cold air.  Of course, these are mere flesh wounds no worse than a paper cut compared to what many of the locals endure day in and day out, so I carry on with a smile.

In my spare time this week, I made a video that tries to capture the many different hats I’ve worn this week.  Unfortunately, with the painfully slow internet, it’s going to take 5 hours to upload.  I can’t wait around, as I have to catch the last boat taxi back to my island.  So I’ll have to do the upload another time.  (Update on Sep 16:  I have uploaded the video to the Photos/Videos page.)

I have one more week here in Chile, then I head back to San Francisco for a few days of rest.  Then I head over to Germany for hiking.  While I've been very physically active here on the island, I don't feel adequately prepared for a trek through the Alps.

I’ll need a place to stay in San Francisco from September 22 to 25 if anyone wants to host me!

Working on Boats, Exploring Islands

I have now been living on Isla Tenglo for about 10 days and so much has happened!  Yet because I am technologically isolated – and in fact physically isolated – I have just been quietly absorbing and enjoying it all.  On most evenings, I find myself huddled by the fire talking through my fingers to my MacBook Pro.

Rather than post all of that writing, I’ve decided to provide a weekly update of my activities here at www.dannyboytravels.com along with an occasional post on Facebook.  I’ll also post a few pictures with every journal entry, but when I have more time and WIFI, I’ll add some “albums” in the Photos/Videos section with more extensive photo coverage.  The scenery down here is stunning as you might imagine.

This past week (starting Sunday Aug 30) has been nothing short of amazing, as I continued my work, but also explored the surrounding islands.

My work this week focused on the Club Nautico Reloncavi marina.  I cleaned Christian’s sailboats getting one ready for sale (“Finesse,” a 38-foot Jeanneau), and one ready for sail (“Kaweskar,” a 44-foot Beneteau).  As I had hoped, I also paired up with David, Christian’s son-in-law, and helped him with his boat maintenance and repair work.   We changed oil, replaced fuel filters, connected water tanks, repaired electronics, etc.  Each day the hard work was rewarded with a 3-course hot lunch at the Club Nautico Reloncavi restaurant.  Fantastico!

We worked on some amazing boats, including an 83-foot Swan and a 56-foot Bavaria.  Unlike San Francisco where most boats are “day-sailers,” down here the majority of sailboats are serious “cruisers,” equipped with dinghies, radar, solar panels, water makers, wind generators, etc. 

Like I said, the week wasn’t all work.  I had plenty of time to explore my island, and two others.

I first wanted to explore my host island, Isla Tenglo.  I was going to do that Sunday, my day off, but it rained all day long.  I canceled my hike as well as my supply run, choosing to seek refuge in my sleeping bag, by the fire, with a book “Walking the Amazon.”  This was perhaps the low-point of my trip thus far.  The hot water in the bathroom wasn’t working, and the stove was out of propane.  No hot shower.  No hot coffee.  Dinner consisted of a peanut butter sandwich with pumpkin seeds and almonds.

Monday made up for Sunday.  It was a glorious evening so I trekked around Isla Tenglo, taking photos of the distant volcanoes and the setting sun.  Only 8 miles long, Isla Tenglo is at the north end of Southern Chile – basically right where Chile changes from mostly mainland to mostly islands.  There are perhaps 1,000 people, and only a handful of motorized vehicles; in a week, I’ve seen one car.  The only store is about the size of an average bedroom (in San Francisco not Texas).  To get to mainland, you have to take a boat taxi, which sounds way more formal and scheduled than it actually is.

Mid-week, Christian and Lali took me on a 2-day road trip to the island of Chiloe to see a new piece of land that the yacht club had just purchased for a second location.  The drive was about 3 hours, including a ferry ride across the Canal de Chacao.  We drove through some amazing countryside, visited small towns like Dalcahue and Tenaun, and relished hot, fresh empanadas from a roadside restaurant.   The club’s land was at Playa Tutil, and looked like an absolute perfect location for their plans:  a clubhouse, boat yard, restaurant, and small hotel, plus moorings for 10-20 boats out front. 

At the end of the week, we literally set sail to explore a third island, Isla Puluqui, where Christian and Lali have a vacation cottage. We set off Friday afternoon in Kaweskar, a 44-foot Beneteau, with a full boat of 8 family and friends.  There wasn’t a lot of wind, so we motored for 3 hours down to the island, pulling into a serene cove where we moored for the weekend.

Arriving just as the sun was setting, we took the dinghy over to the beach for a big bonfire, marshmellows, and pisco sour in front of the cottage, which sat tucked away amongst lush trees and overlooked the entire cove.   After the bonfire, we went back to the boat for a barbecue, using the grill that David and I installed on the stern.

We spent the entire next day working on the house.  The family just bought the fixer-upper recently, so it needs some work before it becomes the ultimate vacation spot. 

I helped paint the trim around the front and back windows.    After the long day of work, we shuttled back to the boat where Lali had prepared an amazing lasagna.  We huddled around the table eating and drinking the evening away, knowing that we had made good progress on the house. 

The next day was Sunday, September 6.  After an early morning hike around part of the island, we spent the morning back at the cottage cleaning up.  Then we enjoyed roasted salmon for lunch (thanks again Lali), packed up the boat, and sailed back to Isla Tenglo.  We timed it perfectly – just as we were leaving Puluqui, the clouds rolled in and it started to rain.  Fortunately Christian’s boat has a full dodger and bimini over the cockpit so we stayed (mostly) dry.                                         

I finally got back to Casa Roja around 8:00pm Sunday.  I built a fire, made another simple dinner, and relaxed wondering what the next week would have in store for me.  (Another volunteer is coming tomorrow night, so I’ll be sharing Casa Roja.)

The view as we drove through the countryside and small towns of Isla Chiloe.

The view as we drove through the countryside and small towns of Isla Chiloe.

Securing the dinghy on Isla Puluqui so we can have a bonfire on the beach.

Securing the dinghy on Isla Puluqui so we can have a bonfire on the beach.

Beach bonfire on Isla Puluqui, with Kaweskar (our 44-foot Beneteau) moored just offshore.

Beach bonfire on Isla Puluqui, with Kaweskar (our 44-foot Beneteau) moored just offshore.

A view of the family vacation cottage on the shore of Isla Puluqui.  (Photo taken from bow of Kaweskar in the foreground.)

A view of the family vacation cottage on the shore of Isla Puluqui.  (Photo taken from bow of Kaweskar in the foreground.)

Enjoying the view from the top of Isla Tenglo.

Enjoying the view from the top of Isla Tenglo.

A Different Kind of Work

During the last three days, I’ve completed my first rotation of volunteer work across three families here on Isla Tenglo.  Over the next day or two, I’ll work out a full schedule for continuing the rotation.

On Thursday evening, I spent time with Veronica and her two boys Guillermo (9) and Felipe (6), teaching them English, using their school workbook as a guide. 

On Friday, I spent the afternoon with Mari and Rupe and their daughter Rocio (16).  For most of the day, Rupe and I built new stairs up the incline in his backyard. Future work may include building a greenhouse, feeding the animals, and helping Rocio with her English.  I admit I hope it’s not cleaning out the pig stall, but I will if I am asked.

On Saturday, I met Adela and her granddaughter Loreto (10).  Adela asked me to prune the apple trees in her orchard, so that they would fill out and not grow so tall.  This meant clipping some of the upper branches, which proved challenging.  Using rope, I was able to pull some of the branches down toward me to clip them.  Other times I had to use an old wooden ladder I found in the shed.  We’ll see how this goes. Teaching Loreto English may be a safer option.

Saturday evening, I met Christian’s son-in-law David.  He is an accomplished sailor, lives locally, and runs a sailboat repair/maintenance business.  I have offered to work for him for free, in exchange for learning more about boats, so we’ll see if this pans out as a fourth volunteer opportunity.

During these few days, Christian and Lali have been super helpful, available, and generous every step of the way which I truly appreciate.  I've enjoyed a few evening cocktail hours and dinner with them.

Here are a few pictures of what I’ve been up to:

Building a set of stairs in the garden.

Building a set of stairs in the garden.

The apple orchard I'm pruning.

The apple orchard I'm pruning.

This beats working in the office!

This beats working in the office!

Bienvenidos a Casa Roja

After a 12-hour plane right, a 12-hour layover in Santiago, and a 12-hour bus ride, I finally arrived in Puerto Montt, Chile, at the Club Nautico Relocavi. The dock master took me across the channel in a small motorboat to Isla Tenglo where I met Christian, my Host for the next few weeks. 

Christian immediately welcomed me into his home for breakfast, coffee, and WIFI.  After being on the road for nearly 40 hours, I’m not sure which one I needed most.

As we ate, Christian shared some history about the island community and the local families I would be helping with various tasks.   

After breakfast, Christian and I walked along the waterfront to “Casa Roja,” a beautiful two-story house overlooking the channel.  I couldn’t believe it when he said this was going to be where I would stay.  “Act like you’re the new owner” he said as he handed me the keys and left me alone in this 3 bedroom, 4 bathroom house.  

As I unpacked, I admired Casa Roja.  It had been recently renovated but still required some finishing touches – in particular window and door sealing.   With lots of big windows and a large open living area, the house was undoubtedly a fantastic summer cottage, but with the cold wind and rain at this time of year, the house was a bit drafty even with a roaring fire in the wood-burning stove.  

As the evening drew to a close, I chose a bedroom on the second floor (thinking “heat rises”), with a magnificent view of the channel.   Before midnight, I was already up looking for extra blankets and putting on my fleece hat and socks.   (After that first night, I moved downstairs to be closer to the fire, which was a much better choice.  I can't enjoy the view anyway when I'm sleeping.)

All in all, I feel very welcome here, thanks to Christian and Lali.  I look forward to my stay at Casa Roja.  (Admittedly, it's taking me a bit of time to adjust to no WIFI or cell phone coverage, and having to worry about things like propane supply, maintaining a fire, etc.   But I'm up for the challenge!

 

La Casa Roja

La Casa Roja

The beach in front of Casa Roja.

The view from the balcony.

The view from the balcony.

Not Just Downsizing, Going Totally Mobile!

Over the last couple of days, I've made the final preparations for my adventure.  I have packed up the final items at the house and move them to my storage unit.  My housekeeper and I did a 'deep clean' to prep the house for the renters. (It looks great!).   I washed the cars and hooked up battery tenders.  I packed and re-packed my backpack to make sure I was optimized in gear, size, and weight.  (My new DSLR camera takes up a lot of space, plus a Go-Pro, a point-and-shoot, an iPhone, a MacBook Pro, an external hard drive, and a battery brick.)

Here are a few pics from the last few days.

I'm at the airport typing this... Here we go!

I'm going to miss this tree.  

I'm going to miss this tree.  

Many a BBQ happened here.  Good memories!

Many a BBQ happened here.  Good memories!

My Subaru STI will go into hibernation, but she will have company next to the S2000.  

My Subaru STI will go into hibernation, but she will have company next to the S2000.  

Storage unit filled up!  But I am curious how much of this I will get rid of after months or years on the road....

Storage unit filled up!  But I am curious how much of this I will get rid of after months or years on the road....

Lots of extra gear! DBT is always prepared.

Lots of extra gear! DBT is always prepared.

Waterproof bags to hold clothes and sleeping bag.  Plus boots, sandals, and waterproof outer layer pants/jacket.

Waterproof bags to hold clothes and sleeping bag.  Plus boots, sandals, and waterproof outer layer pants/jacket.

All packed up!  

All packed up!  

Getting Down to Business

With my ticket purchased and departure date set (Aug 25), I have scrambled this past week to pack up my house and move my items to storage.  I'm happy to report, it's done. 

I will be renting my house partially furnished, so the move was not quite as bad as it could have been.  But I did realize:  I have a lot of stuff!  Am I ever really going to look back on my college coursework?  Do I really need two snowboards?  Does the Atari even work, or is it just fun to look at?  I guess I'll answer those questions at some point in the future.  I have heard of many people who come back from extended sabbaticals and sell (most) everything they own.   

In addition to packing up the house, I have also packed my bags!  It took me a few tries, testing out my assortment of backpacks, looking for the right combination.  I was hoping to walk onto the plane with one carry-on and one personal item.  However, with the weather in Chile running at 55 degrees and raining (every day), I'm bringing a bit more gear than I had anticipated.  Also, I have decided to bring a lightweight sleeping bag for maximum flexibility on accommodations.  So I will be checking a bag after all.  Disappointing, as DBT prides himself on traveling light.  

In my spare time, I visited www.moo.com and created business cards for my new self.  I figured they might come in handy as I meet new people and look for opportunities to travel, sail, and/or volunteer.   

Decisions, Decisions

With time on my hands and the world at my fingertips, I have found it difficult to decide where to go first.   But I have made the decision.

I will depart August 25, headed to Isla Tenglo, off the coast of southern Chile, the edge of Patagonia.  Through Help Exchange (www.helpx.net), I have identified an adventure operator (www.patagonianautica.com) who is willing to host me.  (Yes, they have sailboats!)

I am absolutely thrilled by the opportunity, even though I don’t know exactly what I will do.  Work on the sailboats?  Work in the orchard?  Work in the lodge?  Teach the children English? Stay tuned.

Incidentally, I have been to Chile a few times before, including as part of my 9-week backpacking trip through South America in 2008-2009.  At the time, I made a series of videos documenting the trip.  I have uploaded a few of those videos to this site.  Check them out!