Winding Down

The last week has been pretty slow.  I’m not sure why.  Here are a few guesses:

First, the “high season” on Ko Jum seems to have already peaked.  Yes, we expect to see a bump for Chinese New Year in early February, but the island has definitely slowed down (as if it could get any more relaxed in the first place).  Not sure if it’s the global economy or terrorism or just seasonality.  I’ve learned that Ko Jum has a lot of “repeat tourists” who visit on an annual basis over the winter Holidays.  The island may not draw as many new tourists consistently because the beaches aren’t the nicest or cleanest in Thailand; there is basically no nightlife; and services are minimal (e.g., no ATMs).  But there is something about the people and quiet life here that is pretty fantastic once you experience it.

Second, with the major renovation work completed at Uza Beach Residence, the work requirements have been reduced to basic day-to-day operations of cleaning, cooking, serving, etc.  Several Helpers have left.  Our lunchtime table for 11 is now reduced to about 4.

Third, it’s been crazy hot with little wind and no rain – a combination that just sucks the energy out of all of us here. 

Fourth, I’ve realized that I only have another week here, which I’m bummed about.  So I’ve been trying to go slow, relax, and just enjoy the time and people here.    

Despite the slowdown (or maybe because of the slowdown), I did take a couple of excursions to the neighboring islands of Koh Lanta and Koh Phi Phi.  Thanks to my friend at Jungle Hill Bungalows who let me ride along in his long-tail boat as he ferried passengers to and from the islands.  In Koh Lanta, I stayed overnight and rented a motorbike for half a day so that I could explore more of that island.  I have to say, it wasn’t my favorite. I was happy to return to the peace and quiet on Koh Jum.

The slowdown has given me time to think and reflect.  Because I leave Thailand in a week, I have been thinking about what to do next.   With a broken camera, I’ve cancelled my planned trips to Myanmar and Cambodia.  (I even had to turn down a great volunteer opportunity in Cambodia.)  I’m returning to California at the end of January to get the camera fixed, pay taxes, and re-rent my house. 

I have a couple of local volunteering opportunities that I may pursue while in the Bay Area, but then I hope to leave again in March, at which point I have a few sailing opportunities that sound very exciting.

I’ll be sad to leave Ko Jum and its kind people, but I know I’ll be back.  In fact, I’m already dreaming of seeing Ko Jum off the port bow as I sail down from Phuket…

I'm going to miss this view on my way home from morning coffee...

I'm going to miss this view on my way home from morning coffee...

Life Is Short, So Live It

The cutest cat ever has been hanging around Uza Beach for the last month or so.  We sort of adopted her.  She is super friendly and loves to sit on my lap.  

Last week, we think she had a miscarriage (even though a lot of us couldn't even tell she was pregnant.)  Several days later, she was still having some kind of contractions, with difficulty breathing.  She couldn't lay down because of discomfort.  She wouldn't eat or let us handle her.  It was a heart-wrenching scene.  On this small island, there was nothing we could really do.

Sadly, the cat has died.  At least her suffering is over, though.

We found the carcass this morning, just up from the beach.  It looked like she literally collapsed in death while still in the sitting-on-hind-legs position.  Poor thing.  

I dug a grave at the side of the yard where she used to roam among the tall grass.  We placed her at the bottom of the grave, and covered her with a layer of sand.  I remembered how she loved the sand, especially pooping in our new walkway!  It seemed only fitting to bury her with some of that sand.  We then covered her with a layer of dirt, and placed a few rocks on top to mark the gravesite.

Digging the grave was quite emotional for me. I was overwhelmed by pity that this cat suffered so much, and by helplessness that we couldn’t do anything to save it despite our best efforts. 

But on a grander scale, I started thinking about mortality in general.

The cat’s death, as brutal as it was, perhaps had some bit of purpose to it.  To remind us that, like it or not, life ends, sometimes unexpectedly and unforgivingly. 

You don’t get a second chance.  It doesn’t matter what you have or don’t have, what you do or don’t do, or, in the cat’s case, how cute you are.

So live your life, on your terms.  Be happy.  Now.  (And of course, the financial planner in me would add, "Have a financial plan or budget.")  

I like to travel.  I like to sail.  So that's what I'm doing.  

Rest in peace, “Cat.”  I’m sorry we couldn’t help you, or even give you a name.

The cat's gravesite, in the center of the picture, marked by a pile of rocks.  She's nestled in the tall grass that she used to play in, and just a few meters away from the sand walkway that she loved to poop in.  RIP.

The cat's gravesite, in the center of the picture, marked by a pile of rocks.  She's nestled in the tall grass that she used to play in, and just a few meters away from the sand walkway that she loved to poop in.  RIP.

The One that Got Away

As I’ve mentioned before, one of my favorite activities here on Koh Jum has been fishing for squid.  We take kayaks out at sunrise or sunset, equipped with a “squid lure” on the end of a fishing line wrapped around a plastic water bottle, and a plastic bucket to hold the squid should we be lucky enough to catch one.  For whatever reason, we don’t even need bait; the squid (supposedly) just go after the colorful plastic squid lure, and their tentacles get caught on the hooks.  

That's the theory, at least.  I've been trying to prove it for 2 months.  (There are plenty of squid dishes in restaurants on the island, so certainly someone is catching squid.)

I’ve had lots of nibbles, and one or two visual sightings of the bugger slipping off the hook (which doesn’t have the normal barb).

It’s sort of a game.  I know I’m smarter than the squid.  And I know I will catch one eventually.  But I have been very patient because the actual process of squid fishing is so enjoyable:  drifting in the kayak about 50 meters off shore, basking in the sunset glow, and admiring the light as it reflects off the wet rocks, palm trees, and jungle bungalows on the shore.  I drag the lure behind me, occasionally bringing it in and then casting it out again. 

So while the squid is playing hard to get, I am also not really giving it my all.  I could try a different sized lure, I could try baiting the lure, I could spend more time out there. 

But, I’m happy to report – the game is over.  Sort of.

I finally caught one!  He was firmly on the line as I hauled him up from the depths below, and scooped him into the bucket.  I paused for a moment when he was at the surface – just like I was taught – to let him squirt his ink. 

Once in the bucket, and secure in the boat, I unhooked his tentacles from the hook. He squirted his black ink again.   And then again.  Soon, the small bucket holding him was filled with inky sea water.  As he squirted more, the ink would spray into the kayak and on me.  This was getting messy.  So I headed to shore rather than try to catch another one. 

Cloaked in darkness except for that which was illuminated by the narrow high-beam of my headlamp, I carefully navigated around the rocks and onto the shore. 

The squid was small – probably not worth killing, cooking, and eating – but I did want to show my friends that I finally caught one, and then we would let him go.   But the little guy was immersed in his own ink.  He was probably suffocating / drowning.  So, being the nice guy that I am, I decided to replace some of that inky water with fresh sea water.

So I tipped the bucket just a bit to drain out some water and then…oh noooo…the crazy squid shooted out of the bucket and back into the ocean! 

Fortunately I have a Go Pro clip of me with the squid, but between the night air and the black ink water, it’s too dark to see anything.  At least I know I caught one, but he escaped as I was trying to avoid having him drown in his own black ink.  Bummer.  So much for being a nice guy.  Next time I'm going to break his neck - if he has one.

The drama of squid fishing intrigued fellow-Helper Gaston, so he and I went out the next night.  We didn’t catch any squid but we noticed a lot of small fish liked our headlamps.  We could lure the fish to the kayak with the light.  Just for fun, Gaston tried to catch one by scooping it up in the bucket. After a few tries, he succeeded!!  He stowed the little guy in the cargo net on the kayak, and tried again.  Success.  I even tried to stun the fish first by smacking them with my paddle.  (Not sure how well that worked or whether Gaston even needed my assistance.)

That night, we caught 6 fish while ‘bucket fishing’.  We took them to a nearby restaurant, where our favorite chef Rosa cooked them for us. 

The next night, we went out again.  We caught 12!  Well, Gaston caught 12.  I failed miserably.

By the third night, we became more serious.  We went to the store to buy mesh netting.  Gaston and Maria made two nets with leftover metal rods and the new netting.  We also found a third net in the storage unit.

The three of us went out again that night. We tried for squid again first, but no luck.  Then we tried fishing with the nets.  Easy!  I caught 18.  Gaston caught 19.  I felt a little guilty because it was SO easy.  And I felt guilty that we just put the fish in the kayak’s cargo net and let them suffocate.  That probably wasn’t the most humane way to do it, but I didn’t have anything to kill them quickly with.  (Not sure if fish have necks either?)

That night we cooked the fish at Uza Beach Restaurant and had quite a feast!

Despite the success at bucket (or net) fishing, I still want to have grilled squid before I leave…and I’m running out of days.  Only 2 weeks to go!

P.S.  Happy 75th birthday, Dad!!

A selfie just before the epic moment of catching my first squid!

A selfie just before the epic moment of catching my first squid!

I swear there is a squid in the bucket hiding under all that black ink.  Unfortunately he got away when I carelessly tried to replace some of the ink with fresh seawater.  Nice Guy 0, Squid 1.  

I swear there is a squid in the bucket hiding under all that black ink.  Unfortunately he got away when I carelessly tried to replace some of the ink with fresh seawater.  Nice Guy 0, Squid 1.  

Giving up on squid fishing and taking our "bucket fishing" to the next level with homemade nets, we embarked at sunset on two kayaks and caught 37 fish.

Giving up on squid fishing and taking our "bucket fishing" to the next level with homemade nets, we embarked at sunset on two kayaks and caught 37 fish.

We had a small feast of 37 small fish.

We had a small feast of 37 small fish.

This is what the pros catch.

This is what the pros catch.

Another skill I'm working on:  Slack Line.  I'm about at good at Slack Line as I am at squid fishing.

Another skill I'm working on:  Slack Line.  I'm about at good at Slack Line as I am at squid fishing.

Spreadsheets in Paradise

After 2 months of renovations, Uza Beach Residence is looking fantastic and operations are in full swing.  I’m happy to report that we were fully booked over the New Year, and it looks like that trend will continue during the high season.  This is quite an accomplishment given the condition of the property when I arrived in early mid-November. 

Most, if not all, of the existing projects are in maintenance mode at this point.  Here is what's going on:

Project “Walk This Way” only requires a quick daily routine of raking leaves off the sand walkway and straightening the coral border.  We haven’t yet been able to train the cat NOT to poop on the walkway.  She (or he?) is enjoying the largest litter box in the world.

Project “Orange Crush” trickles on as we find things that we forgot to paint.  For example, we decided to paint some of the concrete posts along the road in the same bright orange as the main building.

Project “What’s Your Sign” also continues on a slow burn, thanks to our creative sign-painting crew.   They’ve recently created a bunch of new smaller signs that highlight guest services (e.g., kayak rental, motorbike rental, and island tours), cocktail list, and recycling bins.  They created a big wooden “Uza Beach Restaurant” sign that we hung from the large tree on the beach, again fighting the nasty red ants and balancing on the wobbly ladder. The sign is very visible and will hopefully increase traffic to our restaurant.  

As a spin off of “What’s Your Sign”, we have also re-written the menus, and built podiums out of driftwood to place the menus on.  The podiums are located at the street and beach entrances to the restaurant, so passers-by can review menu items and prices.  Now we just need to translate the menus to Thai so the cook knows what to prepare!

Project “Sunset Suds” is alive and well.  In fact, the BAR IS OPEN!  We have a night shift from 6:00pm to 10:00pjm.   We are still working out the day shift, which arguably might be more important.

Project “Cuckoo for Coconuts” has not seen a lot of action – other than making some matching lamps for the menu-podiums.  These aren’t done yet.

The majority of our time recently has been spent helping Ben manage the day-to-day operations of the resort.  I’m calling this ongoing project, “Squeaky Clean.”

We have been cleaning the bungalows and villa apartments, cleaning the public areas, emptying garbage, and setting-up and breaking-down the restaurant each day.  It’s not glamorous work, but it’s a critical part of running a resort.  If you read reviews of hotels, “cleanliness” is very frequently mentioned.  We want to excel here.

Speaking of excel, I have created some Microsoft Excel spreadsheets to help us manage the day-to-day.  (Those of you who know me from a work environment will not be surprised by this bit of news.)

First, I’ve created a spreadsheet to track room cleaning and room set-up.  For every room, we log who’s cleaning the room, and what “clean” means.  We also then log who’s setting up the room, and what “set-up / ready” means. I donated two “cleaning kits” to Uza Beach Residence, complete with buckets, scrub brushes, cleaning agents, and rubber gloves in order to elevate the standard of “clean” and “ready”.  

Second, I created a spreadsheet to manage bookings. We now know who the guest is, where they booked from, what kind of room they want, how long they are staying, and any other special notes about the reservation.  The spreadsheet is basic, but it is a vast improvement over the pen/paper process used previously.  Fitting the reservations into the bungalows and villas with the right lengths of stay and room/bed requirements, with no overlap or conflict, is like a working on a jigsaw puzzle.  Using a digital solution like Excel is fast and convenient if changes need to be made.  We can even download reservation information from Booking.com and Agoda.com!

Third, I’m working on a financial model for the property so we can better manage revenue, costs, and profits, as well as re-investment in supplies and inventory. I’m not sure Ben is ready for this, but we’ll see.  It’s been a fun exercise for me, at least. 

Aside from the Uza Beach projects, I had a little project of my own to work on.  I had to renew my Thailand visa.  I was approaching my 60-day limit!

So I took a few days off volunteering to head up to Krabi Town to renew my visa.  I decided this was easier (though more expensive) than doing a “visa run” to the border of Thailand and Malaysia.  I took a boat, then bus, then taxi to the Immigration Office where I paid 1,900 baht to stay another 30 days in Thailand. I also rendezvoused with a friend of mine in Krabi, and he accompanied me back to Ko Jum for a day.  It was fun to show a friend my secret island home.

With Uza Beach projects under control and my new visa in hand, I was ready to take a break and celebrate.  What better way than New Year’s Eve!

As the year drew to a close, we hosted another big beach barbecue on December 31 to bid farewell to 2015.  We had our normal menu of chicken sandwiches and grilled potatoes.  Two of our French Helpers made mayonnaise from scratch.  That was pretty impressive, and tasty.  At midnight, we lit fireworks on the beach – not sparklers but the real ones that launch into the air and explode. We could also see fireworks going off on Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta islands.

The year 2015 was a year of change for me – perhaps the biggest in my life.  Bigger than leaving Electronic Arts after 13 years.  Bigger than buying a house in San Carlos.  I’m grateful for the “wake-up call” to alter course and head to a more meaningful and impactful destination.  I won’t get there in 2016.  My journey is just beginning, I hope.

Happy New Year! 

The monkeys continue to run around the property watching us clean... Frequently we are cleaning up after THEM.

The monkeys continue to run around the property watching us clean... Frequently we are cleaning up after THEM.

The hanging sign highlighting our restaurant.  This picture was taken from the beach.

The hanging sign highlighting our restaurant.  This picture was taken from the beach.

This young man helped us pick out our chicken for the New Year's Eve barbecue.  

This young man helped us pick out our chicken for the New Year's Eve barbecue.  

New Year's Eve on the beach, complete with sunset and barbecue.

New Year's Eve on the beach, complete with sunset and barbecue.

The grill fully loaded!

The grill fully loaded!

Arriving at Laem Kruat on my way to Krabi.

Arriving at Laem Kruat on my way to Krabi.

My friend David who swung by for a visit.

My friend David who swung by for a visit.

Happy New Year from Koh Jum, Thailand!

Happy New Year from Koh Jum, Thailand!

Merry Christmas (Thailand/Argentina Style)

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so I’m going to save time and just post a few pictures that visually describe my wonderful Christmas celebration here on the island of Ko Jum, Thailand.  We had a huge beach barbecue on Christmas Eve.  Not a gas-grill barbecue.  This was a barbecue over open fire, right on the sand, with a grill that we actually made!  (Well, we designed the grill, bought and cut the iron rods, and then paid a welder to assemble the grill, which measured about 1.1 meters by 0.6 meters!)  

I’m so thankful for the opportunity to take time off from “normal life” to explore the world, help those who need help, and meet new friends.  I miss family and friends (and, yes, at times certain conveniences of my life in California). 

That said, my Christmas here was pretty awesome.  Thanks to Uza Beach Residence and the Helpers, especially my new Argentinian friends who taught me a thing or two about real barbecuing!  (And slack-line!)

Our Christmas Eve celebration was so awesome that we basically repeated it two days later on December 26! 

Uza Beach Residence ready for a beach barbecue and Christmas Eve celebration!

Uza Beach Residence ready for a beach barbecue and Christmas Eve celebration!

Bar is OPEN!

Bar is OPEN!

Sun co-operated with a fantastic sunset.

Sun co-operated with a fantastic sunset.

And the moon co-operated too!

And the moon co-operated too!

I had to include a shot of Gaston, our head chef / barbecue master.  He also performs on the slack-line.  Pretty cool.  

I had to include a shot of Gaston, our head chef / barbecue master.  He also performs on the slack-line.  Pretty cool.  

The large home-made grill, over the coals and packed with food!

The large home-made grill, over the coals and packed with food!

 

 

 

 

Snakes, Monkeys, Fish .. Still No Squid

Project work continues at Uza. The place is really looking good.  For this update, I thought I'd share a bit more about other aspect of living here on the less touristy, less developed island of Ko Jum.

At the beginning of last week, I switched rooms at Uza.  I moved out of my air-conditioned, heated-water villa, and moved into one of the bungalows.  I did this for two reasons.  First, I would be closer to the rest of the Helpers who are in adjacent bungalows.   Second, I wanted to test myself with a bit more rugged “jungle living.”  

Well, I guess I got what I asked for.  Only one day after my move, as I was walking up short stairway to my bungalow door, I noticed some snakeskin hanging from the bottom of the bungalow.  I had seen snakeskin before under other bungalows and I knew there were snakes around, so I wasn’t really alarmed.  But then, as I proceeded up the stairs, I glanced up to the eighth step, and there she was – a green snake with black stripes!  (I later tried to identify online, and I think it was a “mildly venomous” golden tree snake.)

I froze in my steps as she lay there staring at me.  I backed away and grabbed a 10-foot piece of 20mm plastic pipe that was lying nearby.  I used that to gently push her off the step.  She snapped a few times at the pipe.  It was like something out of Wild Kingdom or Crocodile Hunter.  (Unfortunately, my GoPro was up in the bungalow and NO WAY was I going to try to get by the snake.)

After pushing her off the step and watching her fall into the bushes, I then retreated to the Uza Beach Restaurant for about half a day to let the snake settle down (and maybe slither away).  I’m sure she was not happy that I interrupted her nap in the morning sun.  Having a snake in the bushes is bad enough.  I imagine having an angry snake in the bushes is even worse.

So far, I haven’t seen the snake again – but every time I go up and down those steps, I pause for a minute and check each step carefully. 

In other wildlife news, we also saw a snake in the grass outside the restaurant the other day.  Actually, it was the local cat (we have a small cat that has been hanging around Uza for a couple of weeks) that was trying to hunt the snake.  It was pretty fun to watch the cat stalk the snake, pounce on it, and then sometimes jerk back as the snake fought back.  The little black snake got away, and the cat continued foraging for food elsewhere.  Now I am also walking a bit more carefully around that part of the property.  

We also continue to see the pack of monkeys hanging around the various parts of the property.  They of course like the Eucalyptus trees, but they also seem to enjoy the Tiki bar and Tiki hut.  One even entered a Helper's bungalow!  I'm keeping my door shut from now on!  (The Helper had been in the shower, but left the sliding glass door to the bungalow open.  The monkey came in, poked around, and was sitting on the floor when the Helper came out of the bathroom!)

In boating news, I don’t have any update on sailing, but I did embark on a different kind of nautical adventure.  There is a small island just off the southern tip of Ko Jum. Rumor had it that a single monkey lived on the otherwise uninhabited island.  I wanted to explore this island and yes maybe get a glimpse of the monkey.  Max and Noe (other Helpers) joined me.  We borrowed Uza Beach’s kayaks and paddled 1 hour to “Lion island,” all the while wondering why it wasn’t called “Monkey Island.”  

We arrived at the island at low tide, so we had to carefully land the kayaks on the beach, avoiding the exposed rocks and coral.  But that was the most exciting part of the day.  We didn’t see the monkey, despite our best monkey calls.

The highlight of the week was accompanying “Oh” (a local bartender) as he visited his fish farm on the other side of Ko Jum.  Max and Noe also joined us.

The four of us borrowed a motorbike with sidecar and went down to the mangroves where Oh keeps his long-tail boat.  The tide was very low, though, and the boat was too heavy for us to lift into the water.  So we took Oh’s second boat, a rowboat which was barely big enough for the four of us.  We still had to carry it a few hundred meters, through a muddy mangrove, to set it in the water. During the walk, I cringed with every step not knowing exactly what I was going to step on.  When we finally got the boat in the water, Oh sat on the bow and paddled us backward to the fish farm which was a few hundred meters offshore. 

The farm was basically a checkerboard structure with 1x4 planks and/or bamboo poles lashed together with large styra-foam blocks providing the buoyancy.  There were 12 “squares” in which nets hung down into the water, creating “tanks” for the variety of fish that Oh was growing.  There was also a 13th tank off to the side holding a grouper. 

The walkways between each tank varied in width – from 4 inches to maybe a foot.  We gingerly (and me nervously) walked around as Oh explained the different tanks and fish, and a bit of history about the farm.  He had to rebuild it from scratch after the tsunami.  His dream is to build 4 floating bungalows for tourists around the farm.

After giving us a tour of the floating fish farm, he then gave us fishing rods and said he would be back in twenty minutes with beer.  He told us just to relax, fish, and enjoy the surroundings. (But not fish for the fish that he was farming, of course.)   We used the squid lure to try for more squid – but no luck. Oh returned in 20 minutes with cold beers for all of us, which was almost as good as fresh squid.

Oh showed us how to throw the net out to catch fish, which he would use as food for his farmed fish.  He caught many small fish, which we pulled from the net and then dropped into the various tanks holding much larger fish.   We did this until sunset, relishing the unique experience. 

Before we left, Oh put some bait on a hook, dropped it into one of the tanks, and within seconds he caught one of his own fish.  He gave it to us as an edible souvenir.  We cooked it for dinner that night.  Ah, if only fishing was always this easy!

As the sun set, we cleaned up, piled into the little row boat, and rowed ashore.  Fortunately, the tide was much higher, so we didn’t have to carry the boat through the mangroves.  We actually floated. 

Apparently when Oh went to get beer, he switched motorbikes.  We stared with mixed reactions at the normal 2-wheeled motorbike with no sidecar.  He didn’t bring back the one with sidecar. We decided to try to fit 4 grown men on one motorbike.  It was snug, but we did it – and we have a GoPro video to prove it!

Now, with Christmas around the corner, our attention is focused on a Christmas Eve barbecue and a New Years Eve party.  I've also picked up a new hobby besides squid-hunting:  walking on the slack-line.  I'm about as good at slack-line as I am at squid hunting.   

Stay tuned!

I moved into one of these bungalows.  Built on stilts, with wood plank flooring and no hot water, these bungalows provide a bit more rustic living. This picture was taking at dusk, with the moon rising in the east.

I moved into one of these bungalows.  Built on stilts, with wood plank flooring and no hot water, these bungalows provide a bit more rustic living. This picture was taking at dusk, with the moon rising in the east.

Monkey checking out the new Tiki bar.  Let me guess, "Banana Daiquiri?"

Monkey checking out the new Tiki bar.  Let me guess, "Banana Daiquiri?"

One of the monkeys decides to try bartending.

One of the monkeys decides to try bartending.

The view from "Lion Island" looking back at Ko Jum with its single hilltop on the horizon.  We didn't land the kayaks on this part of Lion Island... there is a somewhat sandier beach just to the right.

The view from "Lion Island" looking back at Ko Jum with its single hilltop on the horizon.  We didn't land the kayaks on this part of Lion Island... there is a somewhat sandier beach just to the right.

On the floating fish farm, watching Oh throw the big fishing net into the water.

On the floating fish farm, watching Oh throw the big fishing net into the water.

Another try with the big net.  You can also see here how narrow the walkways are.

Another try with the big net.  You can also see here how narrow the walkways are.

The little hut on the fish farm where Oh occasionally spends the night.

The little hut on the fish farm where Oh occasionally spends the night.

Burn, Baby, Burn

The last few days we have been focused on getting the Uza Beach Residence ready for the influx of guests during the Christmas and New Years period (even though neither of those holidays is celebrated here locally).  We have a lot of reservations on the books, and we want the property to be in tip-top shape so we can receive good reviews on Trip Advisor, Booking.com, and Agoda.com, which will help drive reservations for the rest of the high season.

The big projects certainly saw some attention.   On “What’s Your Sign,” we dug a hole in the middle of the property, at the intersection of the main walkway, and installed the signpost upon which we’d attach the colorful signs pointing to key parts of the property.  The signs went up the next day, thanks to Gaston, and look great.

Gaston, Juan, and I also installed one of the two roadside signs.  We dug to holes, installed two posts, and screwed the large sign to the posts, nearly perpendicular to the road so it was very visible as you approach on motorbike or foot.  It's a little bit lower than we wanted, but we're on a budget and so just using the wooden posts we found on the property, vs. buying new ones.  Maria re-painted and re-hung the sign at the main entrance, too.

On “Sunset Suds,” Maria and Melody painted a great “Uza Beach Bar” sign and hung it over the front of the bar.  The new bartender (local guy) showed up and added a few minor additions to the décor – a reed fish trap hanging from the ceiling, and hanging lamps in “Bob Marley colors,” he said.  Ben and I started planning the drink menu – signature drinks, standard drinks, ingredients, mixers, prices, tools, garnishes, glassware, etc.   I of course created a spreadsheet to manage this.  In a weird way, it was nice to be back in Microsoft Excel.  J

As I mentioned, we did a lot of little jobs, too.  We shaved the bottom off two bungalow doors so that they would close more easily; we raked the lawn and walkways; we trimmed some hedges; and we tidied up the common areas.  

My least favorite task was hauling trash from one end of the property to the other.  Ivan, Noe, Max, and I dumped it in a big pile and lit a very non-eco-friendly fire to burn it.  Please forgive us.  (I cringed at lighting the fire, but I have to admit, driving the 3-wheeled motorbike across the grassy field, dodging cows and iguanas, was kind of fun.)

On Sunday evening, the Helpers decided to celebrate the long weekend (or weeks?) of work by having a beach barbecue. This was the kind of burning that I do enjoy!

We all chipped in 60 Baht (about $2 USD) each, and bought the fixings for chicken and vegetable kebabs.  Ben was nice enough to let us use the kitchen to prep everything.  Then we moved to the beach, built a big fire, and used a few random grills to barbecue everything.  We sat on the beach, basking in the light of candles, bonfire, Uza Beach Bar lights, and moon.  We enjoyed the evening sharing beers, laughs, and turns on the slack-line, hanging out with each other as friends not co-workers.  

One of the roadside signs...

One of the roadside signs...

Installing the colorful signs on the signpost.

Installing the colorful signs on the signpost.

Digging up trash, loading it into buckets, and driving it by 3-wheeled motorbike to the other end of the property.

Digging up trash, loading it into buckets, and driving it by 3-wheeled motorbike to the other end of the property.

Burning trash.  I'm only smiling for the camera; I'm frowning inside.

Burning trash.  I'm only smiling for the camera; I'm frowning inside.

Now *this* is my kind of burning:  fire on the beach...

Now *this* is my kind of burning:  fire on the beach...

And then barbecuing over the beach fire!

And then barbecuing over the beach fire!

A Work Week Like No Other

Grab that coffee or glass of wine, and settle in for a long progress report from Ko Jum. 

We had another productive week at Uza Beach Residence so I have a lot of updates on the various projects, old and new.

We continued work on “Sunset Suds,” “Walk This Way,” and “Orange Crush,” and kicked off a new project “What’s Your Sign.”  Even in our downtime, many Helpers worked on small side projects, indicating how much potential we see in this place.

The week culminated with a party Friday night at Rock Bar, which is the bar just around the rocky point from Uza Beach.  Since Uza Beach provides one of two entrances to Rock Bar, many of the partygoers got a first glimpse at our renovations and improvements to Uza Beach Residence.  Unfortunately, you will have to settle for my verbal description and a few pictures.  It’s much better in real life, trust me.

Since my last update, we’ve welcomed four new Helpers (two couples from Argentina) and said goodbye to one.  We also said goodbye to Uza guest @ninaseetheworld who has been supporting our efforts for the last couple of weeks. 

I also said goodbye to any future pictures I might take on my Nikon DSLR camera, which has suddenly developed a shutter malfunction.  Nikon apparently is aware of the problem, and has issued a service advisory offering repair for free.  But, I will have to wait until I get back to the States to send my camera in.  Ironically, my camera says it was “Made in Thailand.” 

With so many Helpers (and me not distracted by taking so many pictures), here’s a summary of what we accomplished this week.

The most exciting progress relates to “Sunset Suds.”  The materials for the bar arrived early in the week, coming to us by boat and pickup truck.  The deliverymen assembled the bamboo and thatched-roof Tiki bar for us. 

Then came decision time:  which way should the bar face?  Ben and I had debated this for a few days, but now, having the physical structure here, we were able to test variations. 

In the end, supported by the other Helpers, I convinced Ben that the front of the bar should face outward, toward the beach and yard.  This would allow the music, lights, and bar scene to spill out onto the beach, and would allow the bartender more storage area behind and out of sight.

We spent the next morning filling the bar area with more sand, placing large cement blocks under each leg, and adjusting sand height until the bar counter was level.  We had quite a “fireman’s line” going to shovel sand into a bucket, pass the bucket up to the bar area, dump the sand, and pass the bucket back.

Filling the bar area with more sand required that we add another step down to the additional seating area that we had created last week.  A few of us combed the beach at low tide for big rocks that we could use.

In the additional seating area, the long wooden table looked great with its new coat of varnish and tree branch legs.  The installation was a bit tricky, trying to keep the long board stable and level, but we managed.  As you’ll see in the picture, this is really more of a counter, not table, as it’s only about 15 inches wide.

We also finished the electrical wiring to the bar.  We had to dig up a bit of the sandy bar floor to bury the final bit of piping, but that was pretty easy.  We also went back and buried the electrical and water pipes leading from the restaurant across the yard to the bar.  We installed an overhead light in the bar and a floodlight behind the bar to highlight the jungle backdrop.

The restaurant had some decorative lighting that was not being used.  These were 2-foot long plastic tubes with blue, red, and green lights inside that “drip down.”  We thought these would look cool hanging from the large tree that towers over the bar and seating area.  The animated lights would be visible from the beach and would hopefully attract curious customers.

So we ripped out the wiring and tube lights from the restaurant and re-wired all the connections.  We hung the strand of tubes from the tree, making sure the tubes hung at different levels and were visible from both restaurant and beach.  The most difficult part of this project was fighting the red ants that incessantly crawled up our legs.

We also found a string of Christmas lights in the same color as the tubes.  We ran these lights around the roofline of the bar and down two of the supporting columns.

With the flick of a switch we admired our work – fabulous – everything was working!  Coming back from dinner later that evening along the beach, it was great to see the animated lights highlighting Uza.  They created a welcoming rhythmic glow, kind of like the “come here” index finger gesture. 

Project “Walk This Way” also saw a lot of action this week.  

To my pleasant surprise, Ben had purchased a second Tiki hut structure that matched the look of the bar.  This second structure was basically a raised platform with a thatched roof and small, low table in the middle of the floor.  We put this structure across the yard from the bar.  It will be another great place to relax, order a drink, and watch the sunset.  The Helpers have already been enjoying it as a place to congregate in the morning before work with coffee, or after work with a beer.

We needed a walkway – and electricity – to this second hut. By now, we were good at both tasks, so we put our heads down and got both done in a morning.  Simultaneously, after living with the main path for a week, we decided it as too narrow.  So we embarked on widening the entire walkway by a foot. The digging doesn’t seem to end!

Leveraging the experience, skills, and materials from “Cuckoo for Coconuts” as well as people-power from so many Helpers, we installed the same coconut shell outdoor lamps to light the paths between restaurant, beach, Tiki bar, and Tiki hut.  This meant digging the long trench; feeding wire through the pipe; burying the pipe; bending iron rods for the stands; cutting, sanding, and varnishing coconut shells; gluing the sockets to the shells; and completing the wiring.  In a couple of days, this was done and the lighted path looks great.

With a new-and-improved look to Uza Beach Residence, and with more paths and destinations on the property, we decided to make some signs to welcome guests and guide them around the property.  And so, we kicked off “What’s Your Sign” project.   We created two large signs that we would place on either side of the main road, welcoming guests to Uza Beach Residence. 

We also created smaller signs to put on a post, which would indicate the direction to the bar, beach, restaurant, bathroom, etc.  A couple of the women were very creative and artistic, so they led this project; however, I showed off my creativity by making a small “San Francisco / @dannyboytravels” sign that I plan to place at Rock Bar.  (They have a post with a bunch of different signs pointing to various cities and countries.) 

We will also create signs in the shape of arrows that say “Uza Beach This Way (X km)” and will place them around the island.  Rock Bar has done this and it’s really cool.  You see the signs to Rock Bar in the oddest locations.  I think I mentioned that on one of my motorbike rides I was in a pretty remote area, and lo and behold, there was a sign for Rock Bar.  Funny.

In between the hard labor of digging ditches and moving sand, we continued with some of the easier projects.  As anticipated, “Orange Crush” continued.  We painted the side of the restaurant and back of the bathrooms.  This required a few of us to climb onto the roof and paint upside down.  It was hot up there, but we were rewarded with a unique view of the property. 

We also painted the wall next to the steps leading up to the villa. We were running out of the beloved orange paint, so we painted one section of wall orange, as a kind of highlight or continuation of the Uza theme.  We painted the rest of the wall white.  We also continued re-painting some areas of the ceiling in the villa patio. 

The first step with any of these painting projects is to scrape off as much of the old, flaking paint as possible.  The scraping seemed to be endless.  The more flaking paint we scrape, the more the paint flakes.  In the end, we did the best we could, and the walls looked great.

However, within two or three days, there were small, muddy handprints all over one section of wall, as well as the columns I had painted a few days earlier.  Was a kid running loose on the property?  No, it was the damn monkeys!  We are not yet sure what to do about this recurring problem.  We don’t want to be constantly washing and/or repainting the walls.

Some other side projects we worked on include:

  • Building a storage area and “For Rent” sign for the kayaks that is visible from the beach.
  • Fixing the lighting along the walkway up to the villa.
  • Installing slack-line posts on the beach in front of Uza. (One of the Helpers has a slack-line which provides fun entertainment in the evenings.)
  • Making table ornaments and ash trays out of sea shells.
  • Cutting the grass in the yard.
  • Picking up garbage along the street in front of the restaurant and bungalows.

In my spare time, I did laundry, hunted for squid, and took a few long walks on the beach.

So it was a busy week, with ups and downs for sure.  But frequent swims, freshly cooked lunches, beautiful sunsets, and the continual challenge of new tasks (and, yes, plenty of water) kept us moving forward.  The transformation of the property is happening, and it's really exciting.  We aren't ready to stock, staff, and open the bar yet – but we are getting close.  And now we have aspirations to build a rock barbecue.  The peak season is coming, and we'll be ready.

Even though our bar wasn’t open yet, the neighboring Rock Bar was open, and they had a big party on Friday night with live music and barbecued kebabs.  As anticipated, the party created quite a bit of foot traffic, which gave us the perfect opportunity to show off our upgrades to the Uza Beach Residence.  We made sure our drip-lights, floodlights, and walkway lights were all fully functioning and highlighted the new Tiki bar, Tiki hut, and signage.

Stay tuned for my next update.  We put the finishing touches on the bar area and celebrate with a beach barbecue. And I move out of the villa apartment and into my own jungle bungalow! 

 

The Tiki bar arrives!  (Additional seating area and low table is on left.)

The Tiki bar arrives!  (Additional seating area and low table is on left.)

A closer look at the long narrow table in the additional seating area.

A closer look at the long narrow table in the additional seating area.

Widening the walkway to the bar and beach.

Widening the walkway to the bar and beach.

The second Tiki hut which provides a nice shaded platform for sitting, eating, and relaxing.

The second Tiki hut which provides a nice shaded platform for sitting, eating, and relaxing.

On the roof, painting upside down.

On the roof, painting upside down.

Fun creative signs to help guests navigate their way around the property.

Fun creative signs to help guests navigate their way around the property.

I made my own fun sign that I will hang at a local bar where there is a post for signs pointing to all kinds of destinations.

I made my own fun sign that I will hang at a local bar where there is a post for signs pointing to all kinds of destinations.

Playing Catch Up

After the three new (and yes, backdated) posts I just uploaded, my journal is now up to date.

As you can see, I’ve been working hard here at Uza Beach Resort.  It’s been great to have additional Helpers since there is so much work to do.  I have already worn through my work gloves.  I hope to find another pair in the village.

My volunteer schedule has basically been Monday through Friday, 9am to 2pm.  I then have the late afternoons and weekends free to explore, or rest.

Last weekend I made the 4-hour boat trip to Phuket (long-tail boat from Ko Jum to Ko Phi Phi, and then ferry to Phuket) to meet friends of friends who may be able to help me break into the sailing community.  It was a long trip, but one that will hopefully pay off in the long run.  I’m excited.  (And of course I'm very grateful to all of those involved in setting up and participating in the meeting.)

The ferry portion of that trip was what you might expect – the boat was full of young backpackers soaking up the sun, listening to music on headphones, and/or sleeping off their hangovers. 

The long-tail boat coming home from Ko Phi Phi to Ko Jum was another rough ride of 3-4 foot swells.  With each rise and fall of the bow, we hoped the boat would hold together – especially after one of the floorboards came loose.  (This is just the flooring, not the actual hull.)  We had to stop halfway across the channel to siphon out water from the bottom of the boat.   We made it though. 

In the evenings, I’ve been pretty much a creature of habit, having found a couple of great restaurants and bars nearby.  Jungle Hill Bungalows has a great treehouse type restaurant, and is run by the wife of my long-tail boat captain.  Hongyog, run by Rosa, is arguably the best restaurant on the island.  Great food, great price, big portions, and accompanied by Rosa's infectious laugh.  For bars, my favorites are Rock Bar (built by owner, bartender, and resident "Boss") and FU Bar (run by Gala and Oh, whose familiar chant, "Hello, welcome to FU Bar" will always make me smile).  More recently, I've also been down to Coco Bar on the southern end of the island.  It's a mellow restaurant and bar, right on the beach, with a big platform swing that is fun to sit on and watch the sun go down.

It's been a fantastic few weeks working hard and yet having ample time to relax and enjoy island life...  I've got a few more weeks to go, but I already know I'm going to miss Ko Jum.

At Coco Bar in southern Ko Jum, watching the sun go down.

At Coco Bar in southern Ko Jum, watching the sun go down.

Time for new gloves!

Time for new gloves!

Stopping halfway between islands to pump water out of the bottom of the boat.  

Stopping halfway between islands to pump water out of the bottom of the boat.  

Painting the Town...Orange?

The physical labor of digging ditches and hauling sand in this heat is tiring.  We try to stagger the days of hard work with days of easier work – like filling the gaps in flooring with silicone (see "Critter Control" or painting. 

Yes, over the last few weeks, I’ve done some small painting projects.  I haven’t really written about it because the work hasn’t been that exciting or impactful.  I painted the square stilts of Bungalow A1, the columns outside the Villa, and the columns of the terrace overlooking the ocean.  I used plain white paint to give these structural elements a fresh, clean look.  

This week, however, we launched a larger-scale painting project, “Orange Crush.” The name refers to the dominant color at Uza Beach Resort:  bright orange.  

The objective of this project was to paint the structure adjacent to the restaurant, which housed three bathrooms.  The structure was currently white, but the paint was cracked and peeling.  In some sections, black mold had appeared.

It took all six of us one full day to scrape off as much old paint as we could, using a variety of tools we found in the storage area – trowels, wire brush, rusted blade of an old hoe, and even a crow bar.  By midday, we were hot, tired, and perhaps a bit frustrated that this work was so slow, tedious, and messy.  I wasn’t exactly sure how safe the paint chips and dust were.

After lunch, even though the surface wasn’t as well-prepared as it should have been, we started painting.  We had prepped about 75% percent of the building, including the most visible sections.  We figured we would try just painting over the remaining old paint.  If it didn’t work with two coats, we could always go back to more scraping.

Using rollers and brushes of all shapes and sizes, we attacked the structure and got a full coat of paint on before we stopped for the day.

The next day, I had the day off – but the other Helpers put a second coat on, and the building looks great.  The portion that we didn’t scrape seems to look just fine, too.  Amazing what two coats of orange paint can hide.  :-) 

Given the dominance of orange on the property, I think “Orange Crush” will continue on in future updates.  I have my brush and roller ready...  Stay tuned. 

Helpers scraping old paint and mold off the building.

Helpers scraping old paint and mold off the building.

After the first coat of paint. 

After the first coat of paint. 

Walk This Way

With so many new Helpers, we are shifting the project work into high gear.  This last week, we kicked off a new project called “Walk This Way.” 

Between the restaurant and the beach is a large grassy area, which I have described before -- there are a couple of large trees, our new bar and seating area, and the kayak parking lot.  A few cement stepping-stones extend part way across this lush green landscape.

We thought it would look nice to have a clear, clean path from the restaurant to the beach, and a second path from the main path to the bar.  So, that was the objective of “Walk this Way.”

Over the next several days, we toiled in the hot sun, digging up the grass and dirt, and hauling and spreading sand from the beach.  The four guys focused on this part of the project, taking turns at each position and with each tool.

The two women focused on gathering coral from the beach and lining the edges of the walkway with soft-ball sized chunks of coral.   They used a kayak to transport the coral from one end of the beach to the other.

We also redid the steps down to the beach from the grassy area.  The old steps were narrow and steep.  We doubled the width (using two cement stepping-stones for each step), and added another step to make the climb a bit easier and safer.

Between the bar area and walkways, we’ve moved a lot of dirt, grass, and sand.  The yard is really looking good.  I’m glad we made the bar area a bit larger.  The additional seating area will be fantastic once we install the long wooden table and put some colorful mats down in the sand. The walkways add a clean look to the yard, not to mention a safe way to get to/from the beach.  We have certainly seen snakes and other creatures lurking in the grass, so having the nice sandy path is a good idea.

One challenge will be to keep these areas clean and neat.  I’ve already seen monkeys and children playing in these would-be sandboxes.  And I’ve seen the local kitty take pleasure in what might be the largest litter box on the planet…

Breaking ground on the walkway to the beach!

Breaking ground on the walkway to the beach!

A clever way to transport coral from one end of the beach to the other.

A clever way to transport coral from one end of the beach to the other.

The walkway from the restaurant to the beach.  Sand, lined with coral.  This will be a lot better than trudging across the long grass which may hide snakes, frogs, centipedes, and other interesting characters...

The walkway from the restaurant to the beach.  Sand, lined with coral.  This will be a lot better than trudging across the long grass which may hide snakes, frogs, centipedes, and other interesting characters...

Fork in the road.  The path between restaurant, beach, and bar.

Fork in the road.  The path between restaurant, beach, and bar.

We built new and improved steps down to the beach, too.  (In this picture, we aren't quite done, but close enough to give you the idea.)

We built new and improved steps down to the beach, too.  (In this picture, we aren't quite done, but close enough to give you the idea.)

Just Add Water (and Electricity)

We have made a lot of progress at Uza Beach Resort over the last week thanks to great effort by my fellow Helpers.

Elias (from a German-speaking village in northern Italy) put in several days of hard work before he left for kick-boxing school in Phuket.  Another five helpers have arrived since then – Max and Nui from France, and a traveling trio (Mathilde and Opheli from France, and Ivan from Russia).  It’s been fantastic to have so much help, and fun company!

The beach bar project, “Sunset Suds,” continues to move forward slowly.  Ben has ordered the materials for the actual bar structure.  It will arrive by boat in 10+ days, which is fine since Ben and I don’t yet agree on which way the bar will face:  facing the beach (so that beachgoers see the front of the bar and feel welcome), or facing the resort (so that as customers sit at the bar, they are looking out at the beach)?  I vote for the former, Ben for the latter.

In the meantime, we continue with the “infrastructure” for the bar. 

Elias and I managed to fill in the original bar area with sand but then, after discussing with Ben, we decided to expand the bar area by about another meter on one side – we moved the rock border, dug up the grass, and filled in with more sand.

Then with the other Helpers, we created a second seating area adjacent to the bar, under the large tree.  This area would include a long, low wooden table facing the beach where you could rest your drink as you settle into a mat or cushion on the sand and enjoy the view. 

To create this area, we first built a retaining wall where the beach rises steeply up to Uza’s grassy yard.  We used large rocks and cement blocks.  We packed in dirt to level out the area; however it was still lower than the bar area, so we also built a step down from the bar using rocks from the beach.  Along the edge of the seating area closest to the beach (just back from the retaining wall), we buried two posts that would be the “legs” of the narrow table.  Then we filled the area with sand, and lined the front edge with chunks of coral. 

We sanded down the long plank that would become the table, and gave it two coats of varnish.  It looked great.  We can’t install it yet since we don’t have electricity to power the drill.

With the basic footprint of the bar and adjacent seating area done, we next worked on getting water and electricity to the bar.  We began the long, slow process of digging a trench from the corner of the restaurant out to the bar area.  In this trench we would bury two pipes – one for water and one for electrical wiring.

The digging alone took us a whole morning.  We were using one good hoe, one broken hoe, one handheld hoe, and a shovel.  Not ideal, but we managed.  We navigated around rocks and roots, removing what we could while trying not to damage our precious tools.

The hard physical work required several water breaks – either drinking it or swimming in it.  Or both.  I also enjoyed relaxing in the shade of our new bar seating area.

Once the trench was done, we gathered up all the plastic piping around the property and took inventory of what we had.  Ben had been redoing some of the electrical and water in the villa, and had saved the old pipes.  They were still in acceptable shape for our needs, so we used them.

Amazingly, we found enough pipes, joints, and corner pieces to run all of the electrical.  Ben just had to buy one more section of blue pipe for the water.

For the water pipes, we joined the sections using glue that we found in the storage area.  Ben helped us tap into the existing water pipe and add a 3-way intersection and emergency shut off valve.  We fit that pipe into the bottom of the trench.

Next, for the electrical, we fed the new wire through all the pipes, joints, and corners, making sure we did it in the right order.  Then we fitted everything together and laid that series of pipes on top of the water pipe. 

The next step will be to bury the pipes; however we may drill a few holes in the bottom of the electrical pipes first, so that if water does get into the pipe, it will drain away.  We need to check with Ben on this, and also need an extension cord for the drill. 

All in all, "Sunset Suds" is moving right along.  I can't wait to pour that first beer....

Increasing the size of the bar area (and creating additional seating area to the left).

Increasing the size of the bar area (and creating additional seating area to the left).

Digging the trench for the pipes carrying water and electricity to the bar.

Digging the trench for the pipes carrying water and electricity to the bar.

This wooden plank will become a long narrow table or counter to put your drink on as you enjoy the view.

This wooden plank will become a long narrow table or counter to put your drink on as you enjoy the view.

Testing the placement of the table, and checking out the view it will provide.

Testing the placement of the table, and checking out the view it will provide.

"Critter Control" Commences

My next project was “Critter Control”.  Similar to “Sunset Suds”, this was going to be a longer-term project that would span days, if not weeks.

The hard wood flooring in the bungalows had gaps between the planks, allowing all kinds of critters to potentially enter the room. 

Some might say (and I might agree) that the very nature of bungalows, in many cases, is that they are not exactly nature-proof.  I have inspected bungalows on several other properties, and most have intentional open-air sections, especially between the upper wall and ceiling.

However, the Uza Beach bungalows are not thatched-roof structures.  They are actually more traditional wood and cement structures that have the potential to be more sealed up than a typical bungalow.  Making them more secure from insect invasion might actually attract higher-end tourists that can’t sleep soundly with spiders, ants, geckos, and other critters crawling around the room.

That was the rationale behind “Critter Control.”  My objective was to fill the gaps in the planks with silicone to help prevent unwanted creepy-crawly guests.  This was going to be my first, or maybe second, experience with silicone.

So off I went, with silicone gun and canisters in hand.  I spent two and a half days sealing up two of the bungalows.  I was by no means an expert, but certainly got better, cleaner lines with each length of flooring.

Unfortunately, I quickly realized this was a bit of a lost cause.  There were gaps everywhere – not just between the floor boards, but around the molding, under the door, along the windows, etc.  Sealing the floor would help, but it would not make the bungalow immune to insect invasion. 

I explained to Ben, but he wanted me to continue.  His thinking was that every little bit would help – and the floor was the most visually apparent risk for insects.

After completing two bungalows (and some other Helpers had done two other ones during their stay), we had four done. 

At the time of this writing, additional Helpers have arrived, and they have dutifully tackled yet another bungalow.  We have a lot more to do.  Since this project is indoors, it’s a good activity for rainy days – which are still relatively frequent here.  So it’s likely this project will continue as a backup activity when our outdoor projects are rain-delayed.  Expect more updates on “Critter Control” in the future.

Speaking of which, here is an update on another long term project, "Sunset Suds."  At the time of this writing (December 8), the bar materials have been ordered.  They are due to arrive in 10 days.  In Thai time, that may mean a month, but at least we have forward progress.  In the meantime, we will begin digging a ditch to run the electrical wire and pipe from the street out to the beachfront bar.  Stay tuned for updates on that work, as well as a couple other shorter-term projects that are underway.

It's exciting times at Uza!

You can't seem them, but the monkeys were back, hanging around in the trees watching me.  

You can't seem them, but the monkeys were back, hanging around in the trees watching me.  

As I worked, I listened to iTunes and took a few pictures with my GoPro and DSLR cameras.  If/when I get time, I'll make a video of my various projects here.

As I worked, I listened to iTunes and took a few pictures with my GoPro and DSLR cameras.  If/when I get time, I'll make a video of my various projects here.


The Other Use for Half Coconut Shells

On Wednesday, November 25, 2015, I began helping the only remaining Helper (an electrician) with a new project called, “Cuckoo for Coconuts.”  

Without lighting, the walkways around the Uza Beach bungalows were very dark at night, undoubtedly giving all but the most intrepid guests an uneasy feeling as they returned home for the evening. 

Our objective for this project was to install outdoor lighting along the two paths that lead to the bungalows.  The lighting would consist of a series of “coconut lamps.” 

Each lamp would have two components that we would have to make:  The “shade” would be an upside down half coconut shell with a polished varnish finish, and the “stand” would be a iron rod in the shape of a question mark from which we would hang the shade.

Ben was in charge of making the shades, which he did over a series of quiet evenings in the Uza Beach restaurant. 

Mikeli and I made the stands.  We cut a long iron rod into sections, and used a pipe and special metal-bending device to make the rods into curvy question marks.  Mikeli deserves credit for making most of the stands, but he was a patient teacher as he watched me make my share of stands.  Each stand was slightly different from the prototype.  One was too big, one was too curvy, one was crooked…but alas, that added to the “beach bungalow feel” to the place, we decided.  You don’t expect things to be perfect at this type of resort.  I ultimately got the hang of the technique.  It is opportunities like this to learn a new skill (simple as it may be) that make my volunteering so interesting.

With the shades and stands manufactured, we moved on to the ground work and installation.

For the next couple of days, fending off mosquitos, monkeys, and the hot sun, we worked on two pathways leading to the Bungalows. 

One path was completely new, so we dug a long trench parallel to the desired path, fed the electrical wire through a plastic pipe, and buried the pipe leaving access points about every 5-7 meters.  At these points, we cut into the pipe, pulled up the slack in the wiring, spliced in the wiring from the lamp, and installed the stand and shade.  Then we buried the remaining section of pipe.

The second path already had wiring and piping, but no lights.  The existing wiring was going to be too short by the time we used the slack to run up each of the hanging lamps.  So we bought new longer wire and fed it through the existing piping, removing the old wiring.  All of this was done while the pipe was still underground (except for the beginning and ending points, of course.)  Then, similar to the other path, we dug access points every 5-7 meters and followed the same installation approach.  In this case, since we didn’t know exactly where the pipe was buried, we had to be a bit careful in our trial-and-error probing with the hoe.  (Fortunately, it was laid in more or less a straight line, so it got easier as we went.) 

Once the stands were planted, lamps hung, and electrical wire secured, I then went around with a can of black spray paint and painted the stand and wire black.  The coconut shells remained in their nice brown varnish finish.   We also put some mulch around the base of each lamp as a finishing touch. 

The project took us a few days – and thanks to MIkeli the electrician for really leading the project from a technical standpoint.  Unfortunately, he didn’t get to see the final result because even though we had installed and tested over 25 lights, we didn’t have enough light bulbs to get everything lit up before Mikeli had to continue with his travels!  The local stores here on Ko Jum just aren’t that heavy on inventory.

It was only until about a week later when Ben had time to go to Krabi Town on the mainland to stock up on new light bulbs.

By the time of this writing, the bulbs are in and the well-lit paths look great!  This new feature adds an element of safety and security to the property.  The island-themed coconut lights provide a welcoming beacon to guests as they make their way back from one of the local restaurants or from an evening walk on the beach.

Even the local monkeys came by to inspect our work.  (One even brought her baby.)  They probably wondered what we had been doing with all of their coconuts!  I think they approved because so far they haven’t ripped out any of the lamps.

“Cuckoo for Coconuts” is done!

Digging the ditch for the electrical wire and pipe.

Digging the ditch for the electrical wire and pipe.

Laying in the pipe (with electrical wire inside) and burying it).

Laying in the pipe (with electrical wire inside) and burying it).

The coconut half shell shade and stand - BEFORE paint.

The coconut half shell shade and stand - BEFORE paint.

The coconut half shell shade and stand - AFTER paint.

The coconut half shell shade and stand - AFTER paint.

Monkey coming to inspect our work.

Monkey coming to inspect our work.

Full monkey inspection committee, including baby clinging to his mom's underside.

Full monkey inspection committee, including baby clinging to his mom's underside.

Here's how it looks at night, complete with tree floodlight that we also installed.

Here's how it looks at night, complete with tree floodlight that we also installed.

Welcome to the (Concrete) Jungle!

Putting “Sunset Suds” on hold, I joined three other Helpers on a short, urgent project called “Concrete Jungle.”

The objective of this project was to repair a large hole in the pavement floor of the storage area behind the restaurant.  The hole had filled with rainwater and was now a festering cesspool of mosquito larvae and garbage.

We first filled the hole with sand.  We loaded buckets of sand from the beach onto the sidecar of the motorbike, and drove the motorbike across the bumpy lawn up to the storage area.  I lost track of how many buckets or trips we needed, but it was a lot. 

Using random materials we found around the property, we built a few more things required before pouring concrete.  Ben wanted a short paved walkway extending out from the patio, so we built a wood frame for that.  Since we didn’t have paving tools to work with the concrete, we also made a couple of makeshift trowels and hand floats from wood.

Then the mixing began.  We combined the cement powder, sand, gravel, and water in a large tub to magically create concrete.  When we had the consistency just right, we shoveled it on top of the sand and smoothed it out.  We got about halfway done before lunch was ready.  Since our volunteer hours were 9am to 2pm (and lunch was served at 2pm), we would have to continue the work next week.  That was fine with me as I was hot, drenched with sweat, and tired.

I ended up taking Monday off, because I spent the weekend on the island of Ko Phi Phi.  I was late getting back Monday because the sea was too rough to make it safely in the long-tail boat.  We tried initially, but turned around after 15 minutes of bashing through the waves.  The rest of the passengers asked for refunds and took an indirect, 4-hour route on a ferry.  I waited with the captain for an hour, and then we tried again – this time with a second boat accompanying us for safety.  And we made the 1-hour journey safely.  But I was late getting back to Uza; Ben was flexible and understanding.

So on Tuesday, with two of the other Helpers leaving that day, I reconvened work on “Concrete Jungle.”  (The third Helper, an electrician, was working on a new project.)  I wasn’t going to quit until I finished mixing and pouring the concrete.  Needless to say, it was a long day but I got it done.  The only thing remaining was to make a mini-manhole cover to place over a water valve where we had left an access hole in the concrete.  I did that the next day, using an old cooking pot as a mold.  No more mosquitos or foul-smelling water. 

Concrete Jungle” is done!  And now I know how to mix, pour, and finish concrete!

This repair job was not very professional - just a sloppy patch of concrete to fill the hole. It was an emergency procedure that should be redone at some point when the entire storage area is ready to be updated.

This repair job was not very professional - just a sloppy patch of concrete to fill the hole. It was an emergency procedure that should be redone at some point when the entire storage area is ready to be updated.

All function, no form.   We just needed to fill and plug the hole.  We can dial this in at a later date. This storage area is pretty much out of sight anyway.

All function, no form.   We just needed to fill and plug the hole.  We can dial this in at a later date. This storage area is pretty much out of sight anyway.

Sunset Suds

Having finally arrived at my destination, I was ready to settle in and get to work.  The next several journal entries will describe the work I’m doing here and the impact I’m making.

The Uza Beach Resort on the island of Ko Jum is a large property with four main components. 

-       An open-air restaurant facing the beach which presents beautiful sunset over the distant Ko Phi Phi island.

-       Two rows of private, elevated bungalows with bathrooms and fans.

-       A four-apartment “villa” on the hill overlooking the ocean.  These rooms have air conditioning.

-       A grassy yard with large shady trees, leading down to the beach.

Like many places on this island (as well as other islands), the property needs a bit of renovation.  Ok maybe a lot of renovation.  It’s exciting, though, because the property has a ton of potential.

At the time of this writing, I’ve been here about 10 days, and my projects have varied in complexity, required skills, and length.  And I’m typically working on multiple projects at a time. 

As I describe my projects and progress, I would love to hear from any readers who have suggestions or comments.  Is there a better way to mix concrete?  Have you ever installed outdoor lighting?  You can leave a comment on a post, or email me directly at dannyboytravels@gmail.com.  Thanks!

My first, biggest, and longest-term project is building a bar just off the beach, in the corner of the yard.  The location is perfect.  The bar will be partially shaded by one of the giant trees, and will offer its patrons a gorgeous view of the beach, ocean, and sunset. Drink service will be convenient for beach guests, and will provide Ben with a high-margin revenue stream.  (Currently, guests have to go up to the restaurant to order drinks, and/or the server has to deliver drinks via the same 50-meter walk.)   

We want to create a pleasant "bar atmosphere" with music, colorful lights, hammocks, and chaise lounges.  The bar itself will be Tiki Hut style - bamboo with thatched roof - set within a sandy pit surrounded by a low rock wall.  A few bar stools and beachy knick knacks will complete the scene...and perhaps a bartender from San Francisco.

I called this project “Sunset Suds” because it will be a nice place to enjoy a cold beer at sunset after a hard day swimming and sunning at the beach.  (And it’s a nod to one of my favorite movies, Shawshank Redemption.)

When Ben told me about this project, I was excited and shared his vision for the end result.  I spent an hour unpacking and getting settled, but then immediately got to work on the project – even though it was already late in the afternoon and I had just arrived.  I guess my intense work ethic hasn’t diminished even after a month of vacation. 

Ben initially wanted me to haul sand from the beach and just pour it over the 12 foot x 12 foot grassy square that he had marked with rocks as the footprint for the bar.  After about 10 buckets full of sand (and about as many buckets of sweat), I sat back for a minute and thought about what I was doing.   Wouldn’t it actually be better to clear the land of grass and roots, level it, and then pour the sand in as the foundation?  Yes.

So I made the suggestion to Ben and he agreed.  (I’ve since found out that Ben is very open to suggestions and feedback on how to improve Uza, which is a great characteristic of his.)  I made a further suggestion -- perhaps we could even find a weed-prevention cloth to place on the muddy earth before we put sand on.

With my new direction, I found a hoe and began whacking away at the grass and roots.  After another hour or two, the foundation was already taking shape…as were the blisters on my hands. I had brought work gloves but they were already getting worn in a few spots.  I got about 25% done before I took a break for the evening.

The next day, I resumed work on “Sunset Suds” and cleared another 50% of the foundation.  I was up to 75% done with clearing of the land.  The roots were really slowing me down.  And there was one big stump in the corner that I was ignoring for now.  Removing that was going to be a challenge with the very limited selection of tools and supplies we have at Uza.

On the third day, Ben introduced a new project that was higher priority.  I put “Sunset Suds” on hold, and joined three other Helpers on “Concrete Jungle.”

More on that next time…

Breaking ground on project "Sunset Suds."  This is going to be a great little beach bar... eventually.  Right now it requires a little imagination...

Breaking ground on project "Sunset Suds."  This is going to be a great little beach bar... eventually.  Right now it requires a little imagination...

Ko Jum, Here I Come!

On the morning of Wednesday, November 18, 2015, I checked out of Grandmom’s Place in Krabi Town, took my pre-arranged pickup truck to the main pier, and boarded the ferry to Ko Lanta. But I would get off the ferry at the halfway point, at an “open-sea stop.”  A long-tail boat would pull up beside us and I would hop onto that boat, which would take me to shore.  It sounded like something out of a James Bond movie.

Sure enough, that’s about how it went down, but in slow motion, and minus a tuxedo, a British accent, a beautiful woman, and bad guys chasing us.

After I boarded the long-tail boat, we untied the line, and the ferry continued on.  We made a sharp turn to port and headed to shore.  I hopped out, into the breaking waves, with my backpack snug on my back and my flip flops in my hand.  I turned and waved to my smiling captain and crew.  “Thank you!”

I walked about 200 meters up the beach and there it was:  Uza Beach Residence, with its bungalows, hilltop villa, bright orange restaurant, and westward-facing beach with umbrellas, chairs, hammocks, and kayaks.  

This was going to be my home for the next several weeks.

Ben, the property manager, promptly came out to greet me.  He was a young German man who has only been managing the place for a few months, but has been living on Ko Jum for a few years.  He is quickly trying to make renovations and improvements before the high tourism season in December-March. 

And I’m here to help!

Stay tuned to hear about my projects and experiences as we turn this fixer-upper into the resort it was born to be.

The ferry from Krabi to Ko Lanta, overflowing with backpacking tourists.

The ferry from Krabi to Ko Lanta, overflowing with backpacking tourists.

I hopped off the ferry, James-Bond-style, onto a long-tail boat which took me to the smaller, less developed island of Ko Jum.  Notice the captain, in true DBT form, giving a double thumbs up!

I hopped off the ferry, James-Bond-style, onto a long-tail boat which took me to the smaller, less developed island of Ko Jum.  Notice the captain, in true DBT form, giving a double thumbs up!

I made it!  Hello Uza Beach Resort!  I'm so glad to meet you!

I made it!  Hello Uza Beach Resort!  I'm so glad to meet you!

The restaurant and kayaks.

The restaurant and kayaks.

The bungalows (in not-so-good lighting).  

The bungalows (in not-so-good lighting).  

Hard to be Crabby in Krabi

After Ko Yao Yai and Ko Yao Noi, my next stop was the mainland town of Krabi.  I had heard Krabi was nice and figured it was worth stopping for a night or two.

The town itself was a nice combination of bustling Thai retail shops and food markets, intermixed with cafes, restaurants, and backpacker hostels.  There were a couple of neighboring beaches that were supposed to be good, too.

Getting to Krabi turned out to be a bit of an adventure though.  But without any plan or timeline, I was merely amused by these situations rather than stressed out. 

On Monday, November 16, 2015, I took a speedboat from Ko Yao Yai to Krabi.  Easy right?  Wrong.  We ran out of gas halfway there! How that happened, I have no idea.  That said, these multi-engine speedboats do suck up the gas:  200 liters a day, is what the captain said. 

The captain called for a second boat to bring us fuel, then he and his 2-man crew whipped out makeshift fishing lines and started fishing, as if it was a perfectly normal day.  It was hilarious!  Meanwhile, some of the passengers were getting nervous as they had planes or buses to catch.  As for me, I just sat back and enjoyed watching the scene unfold.  I certainly didn’t mind the quiet drifting (kind of like sailing) instead of the thunderous roar of the three 250 horsepower engines we had on board.  The crew didn’t catch any fish, but I was amazed at how calm they were despite the risk of disappointed passengers.   You might say they were opportunistic, using the down time to do something productive.

Upon arriving at the pier at Ao Nang (adjacent to Krabi), my adventure continued.  I had to find my hotel in Krabi, about 30 minutes away over land.  I had the address and cross streets, but that was it.   I was too budget conscious to just hire a taxi, though that certainly would have been the easiest and “old Dan” solution. 

Instead, I asked my speedboat captain and he pointed to an intersection and said “Bus.”   The bus turned out to be just a pickup truck with bench seating in the back.  I hopped on for 50 baht (about $1.50) and hoped for the best, not having any idea about the route or where to get off. 

I knew Krabi was about 30 minutes from the pier.  So I set my watch and at the 30 minute mark, I jumped out of the pickup (at a stoplight).

It would have been easy to just hop into an internet café and update google maps, but for some reason I was too stubborn to do that.  I just asked a few people for directions to my hotel and then walked a bit, then asked a few more people and walked again.  After about 45 minutes, I finally found it.  Turns out it was actually very close to where I originally got off the pickup truck!  Clearly I got a series of only semi-accurate directions. 

My hotel was called “Grandmom Place,” and turned out to be decent, in a great location, and only $28/night.

That evening, I just parked myself at Mr. Krab-I restaurant, where I met the owner Max.  He’s an ex-sailor and rigger so we talked for quite a while.  He was a very interesting guy, having worked on America’s Cup boats, Wally yachts, etc.

I spent the next day back at Ao Nang beach.  It was quite pretty, especially the very small island just a few hundred yards offshore.  (I swam, well waded, there.)  

After a swim and lunch, I headed back to the hotel via pickup truck.  It was another adventure.  This time, although I had a vague idea where my hotel was, the driver was going so fast that I found it difficult to orient myself.  I guessed again, and guessed wrong.  I ended up walking in the pouring rain for 30 minutes.

That evening, I headed to the night market and was tempted to indulge in all of the street food that was super cheap (e.g., a plate of pad thai for a dollar).  After some stomach troubles in Bangkok, I withstood the temptation and instead headed to Viva Restaurant to meet Renato, a friend of Max from last night.  Renato was super nice, and my vegetarian pizza was outstanding.   His restaurant was nice, clean, and friendly.

I closed the night with some live music at a bar near my hotel.  But I didn’t stay out late because the next day I would head to Ko Jum, and that’s where the real adventure would begin.  I would meet my host, see my new “home,” and learn about exactly what volunteering work I would be doing.

Out of gas?  No problem.  Let's go fishing for a while.

Out of gas?  No problem.  Let's go fishing for a while.

The beach at Ao Nang.  Nice, but I've seen nicer.  I took a swim out to those rocks.

The beach at Ao Nang.  Nice, but I've seen nicer.  I took a swim out to those rocks.

This picture doesn't do it justice, but the night market in Krabi is fantastic if you want an authentic and inexpensive Thai dinner.

This picture doesn't do it justice, but the night market in Krabi is fantastic if you want an authentic and inexpensive Thai dinner.

Yai or Noi?

As I mentioned in my last post, I decided to put my Phuket sailing plans on hold and pursue a volunteer opportunity on the island of Ko Jum. I told my host, Ben, that I would arrive on Ko Jum in about a week.  I wanted to take my time getting there, and visit a few other islands along the way.  The following are a few highlights from the week.

(Note:  After talking with a fellow traveler and more experienced blogger, I may shift the focus of my writing in future posts.  We’ll see.  She was certainly inspiring.  Check out www.ninaseetheworld.com)

On the morning of Thursday, November 12, 2015, I headed to the pier in Phuket Town and arranged for a speedboat to take me to the island of Ko Yao Yai.  Rumors indicated that this island was quieter, less developed, and less touristy than some of the other islands.  It sounded great to me.

After a 30-minute boat ride and 5-minute drive in the back of a pickup, I arrived at my hotel – Baan Taranya – located about halfway down the eastern coast of Ko Yao Yai.  Once again, I lucked out with my hotel choice.  Baan Taranya was fabulous!  My room was perfect, with a sliding glass door entry, air conditioning, and modern bathroom.  The property included a restaurant, pool, and a beach bar that was still under construction. I was tempted to offer my labor in exchange for the room, but decided to spend my time exploring the island rather than working.

So I rented a motorbike, and for the next 3 days I drove around the island, as well as its neighboring sister island Ko Yao Noi, just to the north.  Similar in layout, both islands have one main paved road, with narrower dirt roads that branch off and lead to beaches, fishing villages, mangroves, or in some cases private residences or resorts.  It was nearly impossible to get lost, or so I thought.  Let’s just say that in a few cases it took me longer than expected to get to my destination.

At several points during my motorbike adventure, I found secluded beaches where the only footprints were mine.  It was amazing, and in stark contrast to some of the beaches I visited later in my trip.  My favorite beach was about 1/2 mile long, with fine grain white sand and a big tree at one end casting a cool shadow on the sand.  Not being a major sun-bather, I enjoyed sitting under the protection of this tree, soaking in the view and fantasizing that I was on one of the sailboats I saw gliding silently along the horizon.  I nicknamed the spot “Crabby Point” because the sand seemed to be alive with hermit crabs crawling around.

At the southern end of Ko Yao Yai, after a few kilometers of riding along a bumpy dirt road, I found a remote fishing village that clearly had not seen many tourists.  I parked my motorbike and walked down the road.  I might as well have been walking back in time.  I bought a Fanta from a woman basically selling beverages out of her house, and sat on some steps to take it all in:  the weathered houses on stilts, the long-tail boats with colorful ribbons around their pointy bows, the women in full Muslim garments, the assortment of fishing and crabbing gear stacked along the docks.  There were a lot of children running around the streets and playing along the shoreline.  They would giggle a “Hello” to me and then scurry away.

To explore the sister island Ko Yao Noi, I paid some gentlemen to load my motorbike onto their long tail boat and take me across the channel. This second island was smaller, yet more developed and more touristy than Ko Yao Yai.  Pasai Beach was nice, lined with bungalows to rent and palm trees to sit under.  Following a long dirt road, I found Paradise Resort which was quite impressive, and exclusive.  On the western part of the island, I found a fishing village with a couple of seafood restaurants – but unfortunately I had already eaten.  These high points aside, I was very glad that I was staying on the more rustic and authentic Ko Yao Yai.  In fact, I cut my day on Ko Yao Noi short, and headed back across the channel so that I could enjoy one more afternoon at Crabby Point.  

By Monday, November 16, 2015, having exhausted my land-based exploration options, I rented a long tail boat (with a 2-man crew) and toured a few of the very small neighboring islands.  This was a bit disappointing, as the islands we visited were clearly part of a standard tourist route.  The beaches were lined with long-tail boats and packed with tourists wielding selfie-sticks and snorkeling gear.

There were a couple of islands on the half-day tour that are worthy of noting. 

The island of Ko Hong consisted of towering cliffs rising out of the water, yet they hid a shallow lagoon in the middle of the island.  The lagoon was accessible only through a narrow entrance, wide enough for two boats to pass side-by-side. Unfortunately due to the recent rains and wind the water was too cloudy for snorkeling, but I did enjoy a dip in the warm water.    

We also stopped at an island that couldn’t have been more than 2 kilometers of shoreline – perhaps too small for the big tourist groups to visit.  But we pulled right up on the beach (which may not be there during high tide).  My captain and I jumped out, and he led me up a steep trail to the top of the limestone cliff.  This gave us a fantastic 360-degree view of the islands.  I snapped a few photos and video, and then climbed back down… all the while nervous that I was in flip flops.

After about 4 hours, we headed back to Ko Yao Yai.  I had a speedboat to catch that afternoon, which would take me over to Krabi – my next stop on my route to Ko Jum. 

Knowing that I had checked out of my hotel, the captain offered to take me to his house so that I could shower and eat lunch before my trip to Krabi.  I respectfully declined, saying that I would just shower once at my hotel in Krabi.  He understood, but he still insisted that he give me a free ride on the back of his motorbike to the pier.  So he dropped me at the pier and we said goodbye.  Or so I thought. 

Thirty minutes later, the captain returned with a box of chicken fried rice and a bottle of water for me!  He and his friend waited for another thirty minutes while I ate, and made sure I got on the right speed boat to Krabi.  I was touched by his thoughtfulness, generosity, and genuine care for my well-being.  The longer I am in Thailand, I realize this is the norm, not the exception.  The people here are amazing.

My speedboat arrived at 3:30pm that afternoon, and I said goodbye to Ko Yao Yai – a hidden treasure of Thailand.  Let’s keep it our little secret.

Only my footprints in the sand.  I didn't see a single person on the beach the whole afternoon.

Only my footprints in the sand.  I didn't see a single person on the beach the whole afternoon.

A local fisherman.

A local fisherman.

My boat-trip crew who exemplified Thai customer-service and genuine friendliness by bringing me lunch and water before my trip to Krabi.  Thanks guys! 

My boat-trip crew who exemplified Thai customer-service and genuine friendliness by bringing me lunch and water before my trip to Krabi.  Thanks guys! 

One of the many amazing sunsets.

One of the many amazing sunsets.

The 360-degree view from the top of an island!

The 360-degree view from the top of an island!

Dinner on the beach at sunset - grilled prawns cooked right in front of me, and a mango shake!.

Dinner on the beach at sunset - grilled prawns cooked right in front of me, and a mango shake!.

Aw Phuket

I arrived in Phuket on the afternoon of Monday, November 9, and planned to head to the southern end of the island.  I had heard that cruisers often stop in Chalong Bay and that a few yacht clubs had sprouted as a result.

My trip south on Phuket was quite an adventure.  My cab driver was a lunatic, driving at twice the speed limit, passing on blind curves, driving on the shoulder, and driving without headlights. When we arrived at my hotel, he turned to me and said, “Good driver, huh?  Tip for me?”  I tipped him, but just because I was grateful to be alive!

I checked into the beachfront hotel, Kantary Bay Hotel, where I had made advance reservations.  The friendly staff showed me to my room, which was an amazing suite with a living room, kitchen, and huge balcony overlooking the swimming pool directly below, and the island-freckled Andaman Sea beyond.  I also received access to the neighboring, upper-scale sister hotel, Cape Panwa Hotel, whose best feature in my opinion was the piano bar and the complementary 2 free drinks.  It was a great deal for just $60/night.

I spent the next two days exploring the area by foot and by motorbike, and visited a few local sailing organizations along the way.   Exploring by motorbike was very fun, except I had to be very careful since they drive on the left over here.

The first day I met with Chris, from www.day-sailing-phuket.com.  He was very nice but unfortunately the news he had for me was not what I wanted to hear:  I was too early in the season, and even at “high season” there just is not that much activity. In addition, most of the sailing is on catamarans, which I don’t have any experience on.  He referred me to a couple other sailing organizations that I could check out the next day.

The second day, I rented a motorbike and visited two more organizations.  The Phuket Yacht Club at Chalong Bay had good facilities and beachfront bar operation.  Unfortunately, the manager delivered the same message as Chris:  too early.  After downing a delicious mango shake at their bar, I left a notice on the bulletin board to broadcast my availability as crew. 

Next, I went to the Phuket Cruising Club, which was a bit hard to find.  This basically turned out to be a beachfront bar with a sign out front that said “Phuket Cruising Club”.   I wasn’t sure if it was just a joke, or if some activity did happen here periodically.  While waiting for the owner to return from errands, I enjoyed a beer and soaked in the view.  The owner never showed.  So, with a slight sense of defeat after two days of poking around, I hopped on the motorbike and headed back along the windy road to my hotel.

On the way back to the hotel, I weighed my options.  (A) Wait around in Phuket for a couple of weeks, hoping that the sailing activity picks up?  (B) Put sailing on hold, and continue my journey, pursuing one of the volunteer opportunities I’ve found on www.helpx.net?   In either case, I could still monitor sailing opportunities via www.findacrew.net.

I chose option (B).  I would feel better moving on and doing something productive, knowing that sailing will eventually come.  So I decided to leave Phuket in the morning. 

I would head to a small, lesser-known island, Ko Jum, to help the management at Uza-Beach Residence.  There was no direct route, which was fine with me.  A bit of island-hopping sounded fun.

So the next morning I hired a taxi to take me to Phuket Town (thankfully with a safer driver this time).  Upon arriving, I walked down to the bustling Bang Rong Pier and chatted to the locals about hiring a boat to take me to my next island adventure... 

The view from the boardwalk outside my hotel at Cape Panwa.

The view from the boardwalk outside my hotel at Cape Panwa.

Classic long-tail boat at sunset.

Classic long-tail boat at sunset.

Young sailor making sure the beach anchor lines are secure.

Young sailor making sure the beach anchor lines are secure.

Daytime view from the boardwalk in front of hotel.

Daytime view from the boardwalk in front of hotel.

I've been drinking a lot of fruit shakes.  Mango.  Banana-pineapple.  Even blueberry.

I've been drinking a lot of fruit shakes.  Mango.  Banana-pineapple.  Even blueberry.

My posting at Phuket Yacht Club.

My posting at Phuket Yacht Club.

This "yacht club" wasn't very official looking...or very crowded.

This "yacht club" wasn't very official looking...or very crowded.