Flying South for the Winter

I'm sitting at the San Francisco International Airport, awaiting my flight down to Chile.  It's going to be a long trek.  San Francisco to Dallas, 3 hour layover.  Dallas to Santiago, 3 hour layover.  Santiago to Puerto Montt, taxi and boat to the island community of Isla Tenglo.  It will take about 28-30 hours, I imagine.

I'm looking forward to returning to Isla Tenglo and la Casa Roja.  I was here in 2015, on my first major trip after resigning from the corporate world.  I've timed my trip a bit better this year.  In 2015, I visited in late winter / early spring, and it was cold!  This time, I'm coming at the beginning of summer!  Yes!

Back home in San Carlos, I've had a crazy last 24 hours.  Even a crazy last week or so.  Here's a quick summary.

After my previous renters moved out, I made some minor repairs and touch-ups around the house.  I re-organized my offsite storage unit, and then paid movers to move the rest of my furniture into the storage unit.  It's fair to say my storage unit is FULL now, as is my backyard shed and my garage.  I'll look forward to this summer when I'm in the SF Bay Area teaching sailing, but can also spend some time sorting through (and throwing out) a portion of my belongings.

So now, with a nice clean house, I have been trying to rent it.  But no luck. People seem too busy with the Holidays to be in the rental market.  So I resorted to hiring a real estate agent to handle the process while I'm traveling.  

Unfortunately she'll be handling a few other things I wasn't able to take care of.  I wasn't able to sell my kitchen table and chairs.  We'll leave it for the next renter, or my agent will have to dispose of it somehow.  Worse, the night before leaving, I realized one of the bathroom sinks wasn't draining properly.  No problem, I thought.  I removed the "P" or "U" pipe below the sink and cleaned it out.  Hmmm, still wasn't draining properly.  The plug was further downstream.  Not the end of the world.  But then, when I tried to put the "P" or "U" pipe back, THAT started leaking.  Ugh.  Now I really need a plumber.  It's not that big a deal, just a nuisance since I'll be out of the country, without cell service, trying to coordinate repairs.  Hopefully my agent can help a bit wit the logistics.  

So my night before leaving, I was a bit stressed because of these dilemmas above.  PLUS, the normal stress of trying to figure out what to pack, what not to pack.  For this trip, I opted to pack a bit "heavier" than normal.  I'll be doing some manual labor, so I brought work gloves, work boots, and overalls.  I hope to be doing some sailing, so I also brought my foul weather gear, sailing boots, and my personal flotation device.  I also brought my multi-tool and knife which might be useful for either activity.  And of course I have my GoPro to document things.  I also decided to bring my big Nikon D750, but left the telephoto lens at home, opting only for my 50mm prime lens for this trip, as a way to save a little weight.  It's an experiment.  We'll see.  In Thailand, the Nikon's shutter froze; in Croatia, the Nikon slid off a seat and the telephoto lens shattered.  Both instances reminded me about the risk of bringing big expensive cameras on my type of traveling.  But, I'm going to try one more time.  

That's it for now.  I guess I'd better get to my gate so I can actually make this trip, not just write about it!  

Adios!

 

 

The Long (and Short) Haul

It's old news at this point, but here is a brief account of our sail from Fiji to New Zealand in November.  

For the fourth time, I joined as crew of the sailing vessel Avalon for her 1,200-mile passage between New Zealand and Fiji.  This brings my total ocean sailing miles to over 5,000!  

This most recent trip began in Port Denerau, Fiji on October 21 when I flew in from San Francisco to meet skipper Tom, his wife Di, and new crew member Nicky. 

We spent about a week cleaning and organizing, planning and preparing.  We took a “shakedown sail” one day to re-familiarize ourselves with the boat operations and to test different systems and procedures, like water-making and reefing. 

We watched the weather diligently, and skipper Tom leveraged many resources to pick a safe weather window for our departure.  Sailing across the ocean is not to be taken lightly, especially in this part of the South Pacific Ocean where low pressure systems spin out of the Tasman Sea on a near-regular basis, bringing with them potential for high winds and turbulent seas.

During our downtime, we enjoyed dockside lunches at Rhum-ba and sunset beers at Traveller’s beach resort.  I stayed at budget hotels most of the week, but the last two nights before departure I splurged and stayed at the Westin.

With a favorable weather window materializing, we checked out of Fiji on Saturday, October 28.  The wind was coming out of the east, and was forecasted to back around to the north, northwest, and eventually southwest over the next week or so.  This rotation worked pretty well for our journey south, although the wind speed was a bit higher than we would have liked (20-25 knots instead of 15-20 knots).  The sea state, too, was likely to be a bit bigger than ideal.  But, the conditions were satisfactory and the skipper made the call:  We cast off the dock lines and set sail!

Per Avalon tradition, we departed to the tune of a carefully selected departure soundtrack, which included a number of relevant and/or motivational tracks (e.g., “Should I Stay or Should I Go,” "Help," etc.), and always ending with “Avalon” by Roxy Music. 

As we motored out of Port Denerau, a big squall formed behind us but we were able to outrun it even as we slowed down a bit to hoist the sails.  We hoped this was a good omen for things to come.

Based on multiple weather resources we used for routing, we chose a course slightly south southwest, to stay clear of some heavy weather that was directly south of Fiji.  This gentle curve worked out pretty well to avoid the bad stuff.  We had a fresh to strong breeze on our beam, which enabled us to keep our speed up as we sliced through the 2-3 meter swells (also on our beam). 

As expected, we nervously skirted around – and sometimes through – the occasional squall in the early or later evenings.  The squalls are tricky, with strong and shifty winds, and frequently thick rain.  For the most part, we lucked out.

On the bright side, literally, we enjoyed several nights of great moonlight, as our passage happened to include the full moon phase.  On some nights, the moon set well before sunrise, so we also enjoyed a couple of crystal clear, starry nights.

The first 5 or 6 days of the passage were pretty intense.  Wind, swells, squalls.  We sailed a lot.  We only turned on the auxiliary engine to charge batteries.  I don’t think we used the main engine at all (other than our initial departure from the marina).   

We kept our meals simple, sticking to pre-made sandwiches and pre-cooked / frozen meat pies and lasagna.  To fend off seasickness, we constantly drank water and nibbled on snacks.

We doubled up on watches – two people at a time – given the relatively intense conditions.  Even if we used auto-pilot, we had two people up at night.  One person to watch auto-pilot, and a second person to watch the first person.  Typically the watches were 3 hours on, 3 hours off, but we varied this a bit depending on the conditions and time of day (night vs. day).

Finally, “Land ho!”  Toward the end of the passage, day 7 and day 8, the wind died down and we turned on the main engine to propel us down the New Zealand coast.  We had been under weather advisory to arrive before the 6th or 7th of November due to another front moving in from the Tasman Sea that would hit New Zealand hard with wind and rain. 

Skipper Tom timed our arrival perfectly – the evening of November 5 – after encountering oru welcome committee of a pod of dolphins surfing our bow wake.  At 11:00pm, we pulled into Marsden Cove in calm seas, light wind, and nearly full moon.  We slowly navigated the channel heading up-river to the marina, using the lighted channel markers as our guide.  We pulled alongside the quarantine dock, secured the boat, and opened up potato chips and cold beers!  

We made it!

(The locked metal gate on the quarantine dock prevented us from going ashore and using the marina facilities. It was midnight anyway, and we were exhausted.  We weren't able to go ashore until the next morning, once the customs/immigration officials came on board to check us into the country.)

We spent about a week at Marsden Cove Marina, cleaning the boat and making notes of things to repair.  We also spent a lot of time eating and resting.   We enjoyed the gracious company of our go-to Airbnb hosts Mike and Jennifer, and their dog Milly.  

After a week, we departed again and set sail for Auckland, about 100 miles south.  We took our time getting there, anchoring at Kawau Island and Rangitoto Island for some day hikes and overnights.  It was a fantastic experience to do some real "cruising" which is fun and relaxing. The long-haul passages across the ocean are much more serious business, almost more like work.  So it was great to take a few days and just cruise around and enjoy the beautiful islands of New Zealand.

Once in Auckland, I packed my bags and moved off the boat into a hotel.  After a great crew dinner, and a day to recover, I headed home to San Francisco grateful for all of my amazing experiences aboard Avalon.

 

Arrived in Marsden Cove Marina!  (Well, we arrived in the middle of the night.)

Catching up on sleep in the quiet Marsden Cove Marina.

Our welcoming committee!

Enjoying the final stretch - motoring down the coast of New Zealand in light conditions. 

 

 

Setting Sail South

Just a quick update from Fiji before we set sail for New Zealand.

I flew into Fiji on October 21, where I immediately rendezvoused with Skipper Tom and fellow crew Di and Nikki.  It was 7:00am, so we had a crew breakfast at our favorite spot, Rhum-Ba, overlooking Port Denarau Marina. 

After breakfast, we headed down to the boat, sailing vessel Avalon.  She looked great!  Tom and Di have been cruising Fiji this summer, so the boat was ship-shape.

Nevertheless, we have spent the last week or so cleaning, organizing, testing, checking, planning, etc.  We took Avalon out for a shakedown sail so that Nikki could familiarize herself (and I could re-familiarize myself) with this particular boat’s operations.  Every boat is rigged differently and handles differently.

Meanwhile, Skipper Tom has also been diligently watching the weather – working with multiple sources to identify a favorable weather window for our 1,200-mile sail to New Zealand.  This is tough passage and weather forecasting is super important.

We now seem to have a good window, and Skipper Tom has made the call:  we depart this weekend! 

The exact time will depend on local conditions.  Once we checkout with Fiji Customs, we have to make the tough transit through the outer reefs.  We want to do that in light wind and daylight if possible.   

As always, I’m honored and thrilled to be part of this voyage.  I’m filled with excitement and anticipation.  We hope for the best during the passage; yet, we know we will face challenges along the way.  As a 4-person team, alone in the open ocean, we will work through those challenges and figure it out.  We’ll take care of Avalon and each other. 

That’s it for now.  I have to be focused on the passage, not Facebook or website updates, so this will be my last post before New Zealand.

I’m signing off and setting sail!

SV Avalon.  She's ready to go, and so are we!

Up the mast!  What a view!

Yikes, pretty far up.  (About 60 feet!)

Don't let go!  (No, I actually have two harnesses, two halyards, secured with both bowlines and shackles.) 

An evening at our favorite sunset bar, Travellers.  Funny that each table has a dog.

My go-to hotel, the Tropic of Capricorn.  (But the last two nights, I splurged and stayed at the Westin.)

The last two nights before departure, I splurged and stayed at the Westin.  

Adventures in Deutschland

My “summer of reunions” concluded with a 3-week trip to Germany, for a 3-part adventure.  The primary purpose was to rendezvous with Ulf, my business school friend and roommate, to celebrate his birthday with his family and friends.  We supplemented the celebration, though, with a hiking trip and Oktoberfest.

My trip began with a direct flight from San Francisco into Munich.  Arriving at 7pm (about 90 minutes late), I met another friend, Uli, after a highly-coordinated logistical plan including a parked car, a hidden key, and a pre-determined meeting place within the Oktoberfest fairgrounds.  We pulled it off without a hitch, and I just made last call at the wine tent.  As the designated driver that night, I drove us home later to Uli’s house in Berg, about 30 minutes south of Munich. 

The following day we returned to the fairgrounds for a full day of Oktoberfest celebration.  This time, we used the train and taxi services.  But this was all just warm-up before the main event: the birthday part on the island of Sylt.

I flew from Munich to Hamburg, where I met up with Ulf, and another business school friend (from SF), Adam.  Ulf drove us to his home in Neumunster – where we enjoyed an evening barbecue with his family.  The following day, we loaded up the van with luggage and party supplies, and drove north to the island of Sylt.  Getting there was pretty interesting.  We drove for a couple hours on the autobahn, and then we boarded a train – with the van on a flatbed train car – and the train took us the rest of the way to the island, across a marshy wetland.  Uli and his girlfriend Danni would make the trip a day later due to work commitments.

On Sylt, Ulf set us up in his vacation cottage, where we stayed for the next several days during the birthday festivities.  And what a celebration it was!  It was more like a wedding than a birthday party. 

The first night, after an evening beach walk, we had an intimate dinner with good friends at a nearby restaurant on the cliffs above the beach.  We returned to the cottage where we played cards and drank schnapps into the wee hours of the morning. 

The second evening included a buffet dinner at another restaurant, as well as an “open mic” where guests played random instruments and sang (I’m assuming) German folk songs.

The third night was the main event, with a fancy dinner, speeches, and a whole lot of dancing.  I was on photograph duty, so I ran around with a camera and practiced my German, “Excuse me, may I take your picture.”  Later in the evening, it shortened to “Attention! Picture!”  It was a lot of fun and a great way to meet (or re-meet) Ulf’s family and friends.  (I have attended two other milestone birthdays of his during the last decade.)

The next few days and nights were spent in recovery and relax mode, just enjoying our time in the small beach community.  We took a couple of drives to the north and south ends of the narrow island.  We walked along the dam that cuts across the wetland.  We took an ecological tour, with guides, across the wetland.  We poked along the pedestrian-only shopping area.   We feasted on fresh fish dishes at Gosch Market.

After nearly a week of island life, it was time to head back south.  We boarded the train and rode all the way down to the Hamburg airport, where we then boarded a flight back to Munich.

Back at Uli’s house, we changed gear – ditching our party outfits and packing our hiking outfits.  We loaded up Uli’s car and drove 90 minutes to the Tegernsee region where we would spend the next three days on two day-long hikes.  There were 5 guys total:  me, Adam, Ulf, Uli, and Olaf.  Our usual 6th, Bernd, had to cancel at the last minute due to work commitments.  We missed him!

The first hike was a long one.  We covered over 20 kilometers and 1,500 meters of elevation.  It took all day.  The highlight was summiting two peaks, and walking along a narrow ridge between the two peaks. 

The second hike was much shorter, but much steeper.  We climbed nearly 1,000 meters in only 3 kilometers of distance, including scaling a rock wall wired with sturdy cables. We were rewarded with a cold beer and hot snack at the Tegernsee Hutte, nestled in the cliffs above, affording us a magnificent view of the Alps.  We weaved our way back down a different route that was much longer (and therefore flatter).  After one final ascent toward the end, which surprised our tired legs, we finally found our way back to our hotel.  The total hike ended up being about 13 kilometers.

Although I couldn’t bring my new trekking poles from San Francisco (they wouldn’t fit in my luggage, and I’m not allowed to carry them onto the plane), Uli was nice enough to let me use his.  They really help.  I’m impressed that Uli was able to complete the two days of hiking with legs only!  Next time I’ll ship my poles ahead of time to his house.

As in Sylt, we spent the evenings in Tegernsee playing cards and sipping schnapps.  The German guys did a great job speaking English, and being patient with Adam and me as we tried to learn a few more German phrases.  I’ve been visiting Ulf and his friends for over 15 years; I really should learn German. 

Exhausted and sore after the two big hikes, we headed back to Munich.  We drove to Uli’s house to regroup and prepare for our third adventure:  Oktoberfest.  For three days straight, we headed off to the fairgrounds to meet with different groups of friends and eat/drink at different tents.  It was a fun time, but as usual, back-to-back days at Oktoberfest is pretty tough.  But “that’s Wiesn,” as we say.   

I spent my final day on a nice walk around Lake Starnberg with Uli.  We walked into town and enjoyed a final beer lakeside, at the Orange Beach Club, reminiscing about our wild 3-week adventure and loosely planning our next outing in 2018 or 2019. 

It was an action-packed, fun-filled vacation.  I enjoyed seeing my German friends again, and I’m grateful for their amazing, generous hospitality.  Uli and Ulf are such gracious hosts, they really make me feel at home.  I look forward to their visits to the USA sometime so I can return the royal treatment!

For now, I’m back in San Francisco to complete a U.S. Sailing Instructor Certification course.  (Update:  I passed!) 

And in a few days, I turn around and fly the other direction – west, and south – to Fiji where I’ll join the crew of Avalon for another sailing adventure…

Strange to board a train, IN YOUR CAR, and take the train to an island.

 

At the beach on the island of Sylt!

Practicing slack line!

Walking to dinner along the curvy paths in the beach community on Sylt.

Dinner tables set up for the main event - Ulf's birthday!

Making the ascent on one of our hikes in the Tegernsee Region in southern Germany.

At the summit!  We made it!

Looking back along the ridge that we hiked.

Heading down to the Tegernsee Hutte for a cold beer and hot soup.

Signing the guest book at one of the summits.

Summer Reunions

It’s been a busy summer. 

Now, that may sound funny coming from me.  I don’t have a full-time job.  I don’t have weekend outings with the wife and kids.  I don’t have a dog to walk or a backyard to manage.

So, what am I doing?  Well, let me tell you.

First, as I’ve mentioned, I do have a part-time job as a sailing instructor with OCSC Sailing School.  The normal schedule for an instructor like me might be a couple of weekends a month.  But, because I’m trying to accumulate “sea time” to qualify for my U.S. Coast Guard Captain’s License, I’m pushing the envelope and asking OCSC for as much work as possible.  I’ve averaged about 4 days a week this summer, so it’s almost a full-time job!  I’m really loving the work, as I knew I would.  I still can’t believe they’re paying me to sail on the Bay and share my passion with others, while I also reap the reward of helping people achieve their own goals.

Second, I’ve traveled up and down the West Coast of the United States for a series of reunions.

In early August, I drove 400 miles south to Los Angeles, for my high school reunion.  On Friday night, I met a couple of high school friends for dinner in small, more intimate setting.  Then, on Saturday night, I met a slightly larger group of friends for dinner before we headed to the main event, which was held at the Sagebrush Cantina in Calabasas.  Over 100 people showed up.  It was a fantastic evening filled with stories, smiles, and selfies.  Thanks to the organizers, as well as to everyone who traveled long distances and/or took time off from their normal lives to attend.  It was great to see everyone.  New friendships formed, and old ones rekindled.

In mid-August, I flew north to Portland, Oregon for our annual family reunion at my parents' beach house in Manzanita.  We filled the weekend with beach walks, jigsaw puzzles, board games, and home-cooked meals. The weather, as usual, was hit or miss – a couple days of sun, one day of rain.

Also in August, I attended a *monthly* reunion with some of my best Bay Area friends.  I started this tradition over two and a half years ago with a particular group of local guys, as we were all getting pretty busy with jobs, spouses, kids, and travel.  I suggested we try to commit to one evening a month, when we can get together for a couple of hours.  It’s sort of like a “boys’ night,” but without the sports talk and debauchery you might be envisioning.   We meet in the Financial District of downtown San Francisco (the neighborhood that seems most central to offices and train stations) at a different bar every month, to catch up on personal and professional life.  We minimize the scheduling hassle by just picking a date and whoever makes it, makes it, for however long they can stay.   If someone misses one month, we hope they make it the next month.  I don’t know about the other guys, but I look forward to it every month when I’m in town.  And when I’m out of town, they *claim* to continue the tradition in my honor.  :-)

As September approaches, I’m continuing my teaching at full speed ahead, logging 3-4 days a week, targeting to reach the required 360 days on the water in 2018 sometime, at which point I’ll test for my Captain’s License.

I’ll take a break in mid-September, when I head to Germany for yet another reunion.  This time it will be with my classmate and roommate from business school, Ulf, who hails from a small town in northern Germany.  I try to visit Ulf every other year for a week of hiking or snowboarding with him and his friends (whom have also become my friends by now).  This year, we're going hiking; and as often happens, we've timed the trip to sync with Ulf's birthday as well as Oktoberfest.   

That reminds me, I need to start training for the hiking trip.  Those German guys are in shape and they walk FAST!  And they use trekking poles!  After so many trips over there, I have finally purchased my own pair of trekking poles, so this year I’ll at least look the part when hiking the Alps.  But when my friends don their elaborately-embroidered lederhosen, shirts, and socks for Oktoberfest... well, forget about me trying to look the part.  I just can't compete.  I'll wear jeans.

 

Playing in the sand dunes on the Oregon Coast.

#OregonCoast

Family reunion activities ... puzzles and board games.  (Plus beach walks and hikes, of course!)

Sailing on the San Francisco Bay at sunset, and continuing to rack up sea time for my logbook.

Wait, I get paid for this?! :-)

Back at the Office

After completing the ocean crossing from New Zealand to Fiji, I'm now back in the San Francisco Bay Area, where I’m settling in for the summer.  I've been here about 3 weeks, and will be here (for the most part) until the end of October.  More on that later.  

I’ll spend most of my time on the water, working as a sailing instructor for the OCSC Sailing School in Berkeley.   I’m really enjoying the job so far.  It’s fun meeting people and helping them pursue their sailing goals.  It's also challenging though, as my typical student has NO sailing experience - so there is a lot of material to cover (from terminology to boat set-up to maneuvers to crew-overboard recovery).   And we teach in some pretty difficult sailing conditions in terms of wind, currents, and traffic.  But I love it.  So much better than my old cube…

The rest of my time I’ll spend in San Carlos, where I’m renting a room in a friend’s two-bed, two-bath apartment.  He travels for work almost constantly, so it’s perfect.  I am thrilled to have a home base, not to mention a kitchen and a closet! 

In my limited downtime these past few weeks, I’ve enjoyed catching up with a few groups of friends over evening happy hours, punctuated with stories about kids, vacations, and careers.

As occasionally happens, I have also encountered a little excitement that I wasn’t looking for.  While I was at dinner one night at Skates on the Bay Restaurant in Berkeley, a deranged man crashed through the glass door and entered the restaurant wielding large shards of glass in each hand.  He had a crazed, determined look in his eyes.  Sitting at the end of the bar, I was just 20 feet away from him.

Everything happened in slow motion, as he slowly advanced toward me and the other guests.  No one really knew what was going on, or what he was going to do.  But we didn’t stick around to find out.  We all got up and quickly headed for the back door.  The bartenders and staff stayed behind to make sure all the guests were safe.  Within minutes, the Berkeley Police Department arrived as well.   Somehow they subdued the man with no major injuries to anyone.   

Within 20 minutes, we were allowed back into the restaurant.  It was a weird scene as drink/dinner service continued, even as staff were sweeping up broken glass and mopping up blood and as police were taking crime scene photos.  I can’t imagine what people coming in for 7pm reservations thought upon arrival! 

That random violent event aside, I’m hoping the next couple of months will be pretty mellow.  I’m focused on becoming the best sailing instructor I can be, constantly practicing my skills and incorporating feedback from students and fellow instructors.  The hardest part is the commute from San Carlos to Berkeley, which is about an hour each direction.  But the way I look at, the commute is the “work” part of my job, the rest is ALL fun! 

I’ll provide a few updates during the summer.  But my next big adventure will be in September 2017 when I head to Germany for a hiking trip, a birthday party, and Oktoberfest!   I'll then return to finish up the sailing season here in San Francisco, and then head south for the winter... somewhere.

I'm just posing for a picture here, as we head back to the marina.  Teaching is a bit more involved than this... 

 

Land Ho! Bula Fiji!

After three weeks of waiting for favorable weather, we finally departed Marsden Cove Marina, New Zealand, on Saturday, May 27.   We gently backed out of the slip and slowly motored out of the marina.  The gurgling purr of our vessel’s 75-horsepower engine was drowned out by our carefully-selected “departure soundtrack” blasting from the stereo, including hits like “Should I Stay or Should I Go.”  We waved goodbye to onlookers as the three of us headed out to sea. 

We hoisted our sails as we passed Bream Head on our port side.  When we were clear of the magnificent rocky point, we turned to port and headed north, hoping to sail as close to our rhumb line of 007T degrees as possible for the next 7-9 days.

As we expected, a stiff breeze and heavy swells greeted us immediately, forcing us to put on our ‘sea legs’ quickly.   We hunkered down and weathered the weather, establishing a routine watch schedule (e.g., 3 hours on, 6 hours off).  We stayed hydrated and nibbled on simple things hot soup and pre-made sandwiches to stave off seasickness.

Several other cruising boats left the same time we did.  (The delay in good weather had created a bit of a back-log of cruisers waiting to head to the islands.)  The first day or two it was fun to see the other boats off in the distance, either ahead, behind, or beside us.  We passed a couple of boats, one in day time, one at night time, so that was a morale boost.  As we sailed north, distances became greater, and we kept a close eye on AIS (an automated identification system that vessels at sea use to identify and avoid each other) to maintain safe distances.

After two days, we’d made progress north and a bit east (to stay well clear of the New Zealand coastline, which could be treacherous if the wind shifted around to the east).

We then encountered a high-pressure ridge that was sitting across the passage route, and brought blue skies, high wispy clouds… and no wind.  We were becalmed!  With absolutely no wind and perfectly glassy water, we dropped the sails and sat adrift for nearly two days.  We played with light-air sail configurations, but also just enjoyed the amazing experience sitting hundreds of miles from anywhere.  

I was tempted to jump in the water and go for a swim, so that I could say I swam in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean, in over 10,000 feet of water.  But I knew it was too dangerous; too many things might go wrong.  We did use the calm-water opportunity to take showers on deck, hang laundry on the lifelines, and cook bacon in the oven!  

You may ask, "Why don't you just turn on the engine and motor?"  Well, we only carry enough fuel to motor for about 700 nautical miles.  The passage is over 1,000 nautical miles!  So we have to be prudent on fuel usage - not just how much, but when.  We need to make sure we have plenty of fuel for navigating the reefs in Fiji, for docking, and for emergency situations.  

Eventually, the wind picked up again – a lot – and it was blowing in the right direction!  Delighted, we blasted toward Fiji with the southeast trade winds and rolling swells behind us.  

But then, we encountered another obstacle that caused us to deviate well off course. 

At 3:00 am on a dark, moonless night, I was on watch.  I noticed string of bright lights appearing on the horizon, off both the port bow and starboard bow.  Nothing showed up on AIS.  But something was out there.  Earlier in the week, we had heard reports that three other sailboats making this passage had gotten their propellers tangled up in fishing nets and lines.  I woke the skipper.  Possible danger ahead!

Checking both radar and binoculars, we could see these lights were vessels of some sort.  We hailed them on the VHF radio and, yes, it was a Japanese fishing fleet.  In broken English, they informed us their fleet and equipment stretched across 38 nautical miles – directly in our path!  We knew they weren’t about to haul in their nets to let us through (nor did they advise us of a safe heading to stay clear), so we had to make a drastic (and lengthy) change of course to protect ourselves.

After the detour, we clawed our way back toward Fiji, dodging (or enduring) the occasional squall which brought with it heavy wind and rain.  By Sunday, June 4, we finally arrived outside the shallow reefs of the island nation.  At that point, though, it was nightfall, and the reef was too dangerous to navigate in the dark.  We decided to “hold off” (kind of like pacing back and forth) and waited for morning light.   

So under the rising sun on Monday, June 5, we motor-sailed through the narrow break in the reef and into Nadi Bay.  We docked at Vuda Marina where we checked-in with customs and immigration.  With paperwork done, we headed ashore.  A cold beer and hot shower never felt so good!

Thanks to skipper Tom and admiral Di for trusting me to help them make this passage!  What a memorable and fun adventure, yet again!  

And We're Off!

After a final weather check this morning, we've decided to cast off the dock lines and set sail today, headed 1,200 miles north to Fiji! 

I know that ocean sailing is not to be taken lightly.  The ocean environment can be wild and unpredictable.  It can foster feelings of loneliness, insignificance, and fear.  And it certainly commands respect. 

Yet, at the same time, it provides an opportunity for us to be completely free, self-reliant, and totally surrounded by Nature.  If we’re lucky, we might sail alongside a sunset bursting with color, or sail under the darkest of night skies accented with twinkling stars and a smiling moon, or sail with puffy white clouds racing us to the horizon. 

I’m thrilled to be back on board the sailing vessel Avalon, as we begin this adventure!  

If all goes well, we plan to arrive in Fiji in 7-8 days... but we are dependent on the wind and waves to help us!  So long!

The sailing vessel Avalon.  She's a beauty!  And fast!

Until Next Time, New Zealand

UPDATE:  It's Monday morning and, after checking the weather/routing, we've decided NOT to depart.  So - New Zealand - you're stuck with me for another few days.  I've modified the post below to reflect the fact that we aren't leaving yet after all.

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We had spent the last several days in a bit of a holding pattern, waiting for the weather to improve, but also continuing with boat jobs, of course.  As of Sunday night (May 21), we believed a weather window had opened for the coming week, so we planned to depart for Fiji on Monday morning.

BUT, on Monday morning, we checked the weather forecast and routing scenarios and decided to postpone our departure.  Crossing an ocean is serious stuff, not to be taken lightly.  We're making a safe, conservative decision.  We can't enjoy Fiji if we don't make it there safely.

The rest of this post documents what's been going on these last few days of what we thought was final preparation.

This past weekend we here hit with 45 mph winds gusting through the marina, as well as heavy rain at times.  It was pretty nuts.  We could only imagine what the conditions would have been like out in the open sea.  

Two of the boats that had departed on Friday or Saturday (in heavy wind/seas), actually ended up returning to the marina on Sunday - one with engine trouble, one with autopilot issues.  

Apart from boat jobs, gale force winds, and rain, we also enjoyed relaxing in the quiet marina community of Marsden Cove.  The neighborhood houses are very modern; the landscaping is impeccable; and the streets and sidewalks are clean and safe.  We found a great Airbnb with super nice hosts (and a cute dog).  Getting off the boat allowed us to get a few nights of good sleep, and good breakfasts.

I’ve also been spending some time in the only restaurant/cafe in town, Land & Sea.  I’ve tried just about everything on the menu by now, preferring Eggs On Toast for breakfast, Fish Tacos for dinner, and a coffee each morning, noon, and night. 

We've mingled a bit with the other "cruisers" that are here in the marina... maybe 10-15 other boats.  Each group (mostly couples) has great stories of their adventures at sea (and on land) from various places they've sailed.  I enjoy walking the docks and admiring all the boats, too.

Sunday, there was a small farmer’s market at the marina.  Skipper Tom and I roamed around and picked up some freshly-baked bread and a few more fruits/veggies for the passage. 

Oh, our other major activity this weekend was to choose our departure music - a couple of fun (and sailing-relevant) songs to blast as we depart from our slip and bid the marina (and New Zealand) farewell.  Not everyone does this, but we like to.  I'll try to capture it on the GoPro.

After looking at the weather all weekend, we had decided that there was in fact a decent weather window opening for a departure Monday.  So we spent the better part of Sunday (and will continue early Monday morning) making final preparations, including meeting with the customs officer to officially check out of New Zealand.  

But, as I said, then Monday morning came and we decided to postpone our departure.  The models and consulting services we use to analyze the weather are not consistent, and do not agree.  I'll provide another update later this week as we get better information on a new window for departure.

In the meantime, New Zealand has been great to us.  The people here are super friendly and welcoming.  One of these days I'll have to make it to the South Island.  Likewise, though, we are looking forward to the warm smiles and the first "Bula!" from the Fiji people!

Stay tuned!

A sunrise walk along the marina's edge.

Headed to Land & Sea cafe for breakfast.

A few of the big catamarans waiting patiently for the passage to the islands.

Farmer's market and fresh baked goods!

Skipper Tom making a purchase!

Healthy meal the night before we depart.

Milly, the fox terrier.  

Headed to Fiji! (Almost)

On Friday local time (Thursday in the U.S.), if all goes well, we will depart from Marsden Cove Marina on the north island of New Zealand, motor out the channel, hoist the sails, turn to port (left), and head north to Fiji.

I’ve enjoyed participating in the preparation and planning on this, my third passage, between New Zealand and Fiji.  It’s been a tremendous (and fun) learning experience.  Every day I pick up a few more morsels of knowledge from the skipper, the crew, fellow sailors, and local tradesmen.   

I imagine some people wonder how exactly we prepare for an ocean crossing.  I'm not an expert and so I won't go into detail, but I'll share a little from my perspective as 3rd-time crew.

As you might expect, we do a massive amount of boat preparation for a passage like this.  We will be hundreds of miles offshore – far away from any outside help – so we want to make sure everything is in good working order.  The list of "boat jobs" is virtually infinite; I don't think we can ever be (or even feel) totally "done."  I'm learning that staying organized, prioritizing projects, managing others, and multi-tasking are very important skills.  Kind of like an office job, maybe, but way more fun.  

Here are some of our recent activities:  servicing the main and auxiliary engines, like changing fuel and oil filters and inspecting belts and hoses; testing the water-making and refrigeration systems; inspecting the standing rigging, running rigging, and fixtures; drying and cleaning the bilges after a few days of rain; reviewing the charts to familiarize ourselves with distances, hazards, and safe harbors; stocking up on fuel, water, and food; and giving the new dinghy a test run around the marina.

All the while, we had to keep our eye out for a huge leopard seal that has been seen around the marina "playing" with fenders and dinghies.

In the next day or two, we will continue with final preparation.  We'll finalize our route and enter headings and waypoints into both paper notebooks and electronic GPS devices.   We will do a final stow-and-secure effort so that items in the storage lockers and living areas don't shift in the heavy seas.  We'll hook up our lee cloths - which are basically cargo nets that prevent us from falling out of our bunks as the boat heels (leans) from side to side.  We'll have a safety briefing and review the contents of our first-aid kit and ditch bag. 

Again, I'm only citing the highlights, to give you an idea of the types of things we're doing. 

One thing that may not be quite as obvious is the amount of weather analysis that comes into play.  We don’t just say, “Ok, the boat’s ready, let’s go!”  Especially not in this part of the world where low pressure systems spin out of the Tasman Sea every 6-9 days or so, bringing high wind and waves across our desired route.

We review the weather forecasts using computer software and online/radio services to analyze possible routes, conditions, and travel times.  

For our passage from Marsden Cove, New Zealand, to Vuda, Fiji, the distance to cover is about 1,200 miles (1,040 nautical miles).  At an average boat speed of 8 mph (7 knots), we could sail that distance in 6.25 day IF the wind and sea cooperate by allowing us to sail efficiently, smoothly, and safely along the most direct route. 

But that is pretty unlikely.

In reality, the wind and sea are highly dynamic.  We have forecasts, but we don’t *really* know what to expect.  Obviously the forecast for next week is less accurate than the forecast for tomorrow.   And Mother Nature always reserves the right to change her mind.  Thus, the more days we take on the passage, the more we subject ourselves to the less accurate end of the forecast.  We try to sail fast, and get to our destination as quickly as possible within the forecasted weather window.

Remember, you can’t just point a sailboat in a direction and say, “Go that way.”  The direction and speed of the boat are subject to the direction and speed of the wind, and direction and size of the sea state.   Light wind or big swells may slow us down.  Wind in an unfavorable direction may force us off the most direct route.

We analyze a lot of weather data from a variety of sources to piece together a forecast and choose an optimal departure date and route, balancing safety, speed, and comfort - probably in about that order.  I’m pretty sure that anyone who does this passage would say that there is some element of guesswork, and even luck.  

So amidst our boat jobs, we've also been patiently waiting for a favorable weather window.  We hope it's opening toward the end of the week.  I don't mind waiting at all.  Our goal is to arrive in Fiji safely.  Our hope is that safe passage takes 7-8 days. 

We’ll do our best and see how it goes.  

Giving the new dinghy a spin around the marina.  

A screenshot from PredictWind, one of the online services we use.  This picture shows strong 25mph winds coming out of the north, directly in our path (We are the green dot, trying to go north to Fiji).  It also shows high winds (red) in a low pressure system moving toward us from the west side of New Zealand).

Acclimating in Auckland

I've been in Auckland for a few days now.  I've recovered from the long flight, adjusted to the time change, and rendezvoused with sailing vessel Avalon.  She looks great!  Owners Tom and Di live aboard now, so they are keeping Avalon in ship-shape condition!  

Still, there is a lot of work to do before we embark on the 1,200 mile sail to Fiji.   So, after a reunion dinner and a couple days of rest, I am ready to get to work!  

We've been cleaning, organizing, and securing items on board.  We've been meeting with a few service professionals to fine-tune the operation of key boat systems and to research/purchase a new dinghy.  And we've done some preliminary provisioning at the grocery store.  

For me, joining Avalon on these voyages continues to be a fantastic learning experience on boat ownership, passage planning, and the "cruising life." 

In my downtime, I've also been revisiting some of my favorite restaurants and coffee shops in the bustling city of Auckland.  And I've enjoyed a few leisurely walks along the waterfront admiring the various sailing and power vessels in port.  (If I remember and have time, I'll go back and add particular names/places to this post.)

Today, I'm up early to help finish our boat jobs here in Auckland.  Hopefully, then, by midday we will depart and make our two-day passage up to Marsden Cove Marina.

There, we will spend another several days to do final planning and preparation.  We will wait for good weather, and then check out of New Zealand and head north.  

For now, all is well and I'm excited for our adventure!

 

Another Brick in the Wall

Over the last couple of years, I've cast away my career in financial planning, and I'm slowly building a career in sailing.  Brick by brick, so to speak.  I'm slowly making progress.  One day in the not-so-distant future, I hope to earn money by teaching sailing, by delivering yachts from point A to point B, and by skippering tourist and/or corporate charters.

I started with training and education, in the way of additional U.S. Sailing certifications in 2015.  Then I moved on to my first ocean passage in 2016.  I closed the year 2016 by completing another ocean crossing as well as skippering a charter in Croatia.  

In 2017, I trained to become a Sailing Instructor, which was my first confirmation that I can actually get paid to sail.  It was an huge win, one that was made that much sweeter by including all the joys, rewards, and, yes, challenges of teaching (which I already knew about, as a former high school math teacher).

Now, having taught my first few sailing classes (which was more fun than I could have even imagined), I'm taking a quick break to lay another brick in the wall, or foundation, of my sailing career:  I'm heading to New Zealand this evening to meet up with sailing vessel Avalon.  In the next couple of weeks, we will attempt another ocean crossing up to Fiji!   

I say "attempt" because that's exactly what it is.  An attempt.  Yes, we plan for it, we prepare for it, and we expect to complete it.  But you just never know what can happen with Mother Nature, the Ocean, and sailboats.  All have their own personalities and complexities.  We just can't say "We leave on day X, and we arrive on day Y."  

Regardless, I'm filled with excitement and anticipation for another experience of a lifetime with the skipper and crew of this great boat!  

With a successful passage, I will have nearly 5,000 ocean miles under my belt... which will increase my marketability worldwide to skippers looking for experienced delivery or passage crew.  As I mentioned before, that's the second way I hope to make money sailing.  (In case you lost track, the first way is teaching.)

As those future crewing opportunities present themselves (and assuming I pursue them), my ocean miles will continue to accumulate.  At some point, I will become that salty sailor with endless sea stories, I will earn my US Coast Guard Captain's License, and I will be the sailor that you want skippering your tourist charter or corporate team-building sail.  That's the third way to make money.

So, yes, I do have a plan.  And a financial plan.  I'm just starting over and that takes time, and a bit of an investment.  I'm grateful to everyone who supports me, helps me, advises me, and believes in me! 

For now, watch for updates as this New Zealand-to-Fiji sailing adventure unfolds... 

This sunset was from our previous sail south, from Fiji to New Zealand in the fall of 2016.  I like this shot because it epitomizes the saying "there's a bright spot on the horizon."  And I'm aiming for it.

Another sunset from the passage south.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back at the Ranch

For the last few months, I’ve been laser focused on becoming a Sailing Instructor at OCSC.  Now, with that job in hand, I’m set up to have a fabulous summer of teaching sailing on the San Francisco Bay! 

The job is part-time, though, which is ok with me.  It allows me to pursue my other interests as well, like volunteering.

And that is exactly what I’m doing this week.  I’ve returned to Sonoma Valley (Glen Ellen, specifically) to volunteer for the same family I helped out last summer.

Their ranch is beautiful, complete with country-style home, horse barn, riding arena, enclosed pastures (which I helped construct last summer), horses, dogs, tractor, and LOTS of work!

I’ll spend a few days here pulling weeds, cutting grass, and mulching flowerbeds.  To some people, this may sound like hell on earth.  But for me, I love it.  I’m outside, I’m working with my hands, I’m getting dirty, and I’m tidying things up.  (And every good sailor likes things tidy!) 

In exchange for my landscaping skills, the family provides me with a private bedroom and bathroom, plus food, wine, great conversation, and a few hilarious episodes of "Fawlty Towers."  (They are British.)

I'm a stone's throw away from several wineries and the Jack London Historic Park.  So in my downtime, I'm free to explore the surrounding area... or just relax on the front porch, overlooking the horses, garden, and sunset.

I would like to stay longer, but I have to return to San Francisco this weekend to teach sailing on Saturday and Sunday.  I'm looking forward to teaching my next weekend of classes!

Then, to top it off, I leave on Tuesday, May 2, for New Zealand!! Yes, I’m back on sailing vessel Avalon to sail across the South Pacific Ocean to Fiji.  (Another perk of working for OCSC is that they are very supportive of this trip as a way to further enhance my sailing experience and my progress toward my U.S. Coast Guard Captain license.) 

In my former life, I would be working long hours right about now, reporting on the fiscal quarter and submitting a new forecast for the year.  Sure, I might be cashing in on some company stock and looking forward to a good performance review or maybe even a promotion.  But would I really be happier?

Instead, I'm volunteering in wine country this week.  I'm teaching sailing this weekend.  And I'm sailing across the ocean next month.  

Yeah, I'm good with that.

 

Dog #1:  Jefe.   (I think it's cool how the camera captured the sun beam right over him.)

Dog #2:  Winston, looking regal as he surveys the property.

The view from my bedroom:  sunset-facing front porch, horse stable and riding arena, vine and trellis, and my Subaru :-)

Spring is in the air!  Beautiful!

Some of my handiwork - cutting the tall grass.

That's a lot of mulch!

Dialing in the front garden.  It's going to look great!

Happy Anniversary to Me

This past weekend I celebrated my 2-year anniversary of… hmm…

“Being retired?”  No, I’m not retired.  I’m just redefining my career.

 “Being homeless?”  No, that doesn’t sound like something to celebrate. 

“Being a nomad?”  No, that suggests lack of purpose or direction.

“Traveling, volunteering, and sailing!”  Yep, I stick with that.

In any event, it was April 15, 2015, when I decided to “take time off from the working world to explore the actual world.”  At the time, I had no idea how long my “time off” would be.  In the back of my head, I was probably thinking 6- to 12-months.  I wasn't 100% confident I would be able to change gears and totally redefine my life and career.  Now, I am certain I can do it.  

After 24 months, I'm still on the go, loving my non-traditional lifestyle and the progress I've made.  I have no plans to return to what society would call “normal life.”  

I feel good about what I've done and how I've grown.  I’ve traveled to foreign countries to help struggling families, emerging businesses, and developing communities.  I’ve gained valuable sailing experience by earning my US Sailing Coastal Skipper certification and by sailing across the South Pacific Ocean twice.   And most recently, I’ve landed a part-time job as a Sailing Instructor to help others achieve their nautical dreams.

It’s been a rewarding couple of years.  But it is not without challenges.  I miss the routine, the stability and comfort, and the intellectual and social aspects, of a Monday-through-Friday professional job.  In my current lifestyle, I wake up every morning and immediately log onto the internet to search for a place to sleep that night.  I’ve found myself in a few undesirable situations, most notably in Eureka, California where I was assaulted and robbed.  And yes, I do my laundry in a Laundromat, eat lunch at the grocery store, and sit at the local coffee shop or library for hours on end surfing the web.  

But these are small prices to pay for the freedom and variety I experience every day, and the pace at which I experience every day.  I find myself walking more frequently and more slowly, taking my time to get to places, and enjoying the journey.  I don't hesitate to just sit somewhere, relax, and watch the people go by. 

The further along I proceed down this new path, the harder (and in fact less desirable) it is to return to the old path.  

Although my focus in 2017 is becoming a great Sailing Instructor, I also have a few adventures planned.  The first one kicks off in just 2 weeks, when I'll head to New Zealand to join as crew again on the sailing vessel Avalon for her journey north to Fiji!!

More sailing adventures ahead in 2017!  Stay tuned!

Take This Job and Love It!

In my last post, I announced that I had accepted a position as Sailing Instructor at OCSC, in Berkeley, California.  Even after an extensive interview and evaluation process, I still faced a lot of preparation before I could actually *start* teaching.  

And that's what I've been up to this past month.  My training and development included studying the syllabus, auditing classes, and certifying for CPR/First Aid.  I also did a lot of sailing on my own to really hone my skills on the class boat, which is a J24 (24 feet long, 8 feet wide, 3,000 pounds).  

Then, finally, this last weekend, I taught my first sailing class, and loved every minute of it!  I'm excited to have a job that is active and outdoors, that involves helping individuals achieve their personal goals, and that enables me to share my passion for the sport of sailing.

Teaching will be challenging for sure.  Students learn at different speeds and in different ways. Complex ideas may have to be broken down into bit-size chunks and explained multiple ways, and multiple times.  And sailing is not lacking in such topics.  We have our own nautical language, knots, navigational aids (lights, sounds, and symbols), and "rules of the road."  Add to this the dynamic environment of 3 strangers new to sailing working together to drive the boat safely and efficiently through choppy waves in 15-20 knots of wind, and you can get a pretty exciting classroom!  

My first class was just that.  In our first hour of sailing this weekend, my three students and I faced a squall and hail storm!  I can’t explain the feeling of responsibility that washed over me, as the boat heeled over, as the horizontal hail pelted our faces, and as my students’ faces reflected everything from terror to excitement!  I smiled and said “Welcome to the Bay!”

Fortunately, that squall subsided within a few minutes, and the rest of the weekend was filled with sunshine and fresh breeze.  Teaching is going to be great fun!

Although I have rejoined the work force, I am only working part-time.  Dannyboy still travels.  I have sailing, hiking, and volunteering trips planned to New Zealand, Germany, and one other secret location in 2017!  So be sure to stay tuned!

 

 

 

My New Office

Here it is - a big update on my plans for 2017!  But first, a bit of a recap:

Two years ago, I quit my corporate job, rented my suburban house, and set out to travel the world.  I launched the website "Dannyboy Travels" to track my adventures.

Since then, I have lived in Chile, Thailand, and New Zealand while volunteering for local families; I have sailed across the South Pacific Ocean twice; I have navigated the coast of Croatia by sailboat and by bus; I have even explored a few neighborhoods in California, volunteering on a ranch in Sonoma Valley and experiencing the, um, culture in Eureka.

Indeed, Dannyboy has traveled.  

But, as the tagline on my website reads, I'm also "Charting a New Course."

I’m not just traveling randomly, counting countries and snapping selfies.  I’m on a journey to redefine my life.  

Remember, back in April 2015, I was tired of, and unfulfilled by, my corporate life.  Although I may have been making a contribution to the company and its various stakeholders, I not could easily see, let alone feel, that contribution.   I wanted something more. 

And that is what the journey is about.

I want to base my life on activities that I am passionate about and on experiences that directly enrich the people, community, and/or environment around me.  

Travel is my primary passion and ultimate goal.  Sailing and volunteering are the means by which I hope to achieve that goal.  They make the adventure of traveling that much sweeter, for me.

Simply put, my long-term goal is to travel the world, volunteering and sailing as I go.   

The volunteering component is relatively straightforward.  I use a few online resources to find opportunities, but in general it’s been pretty easy to find people who accept a free helping hand in exchange for a bed and some food…after I fulfill any visa requirements of course.

On the other hand, the sailing component is much more complicated.  It is comprised of four sub-goals:  teaching sailing, skippering charters, delivering yachts, and cruising the oceans.  These sub-goals take significant planning and preparation, including certifications, licenses, references, and sea time.  

Over the last two years, amidst all my travel, I've made progress toward my sailing goals. I'm now certified with U.S. Sailing as Coastal Skipper.  I've accumulated nearly 3,000 ocean miles via crewing on two ocean crossings and skippering a charter in Croatia.

Today, I'm happy to announce another major step forward in my sailing career: I've been hired as a Sailing Instructor at the Olympic Circle Sailing Club!

I’m thrilled to join the OCSC organization.  This is the organization that taught me to be a safe and skilled skipper.  From my own first few classes at OCSC, I knew that the organization (its people, philosophy, and process) was special.  I am honored to have this opportunity.  Thank you OCSC!

Some of you may recall, I have been an instructor before.  My first job out of college was teaching high school calculus, geometry, and algebra.  I thoroughly enjoyed the work; it was as challenging as it was rewarding.  Those of you who know me really well may recall that I have frequently said I would return to teaching some day.  At the time, I never dreamed it would be teaching sailing! 

Working as a sailing instructor will accelerate my progress toward my other sailing goals – chartering, delivering, and cruising.  As an instructor, I will accumulate on-the-water experience, broaden my network, and strengthen my sailing resume – all while enjoying the process of teaching students new skills, helping people realize their dreams, contributing to the OCSC community, and working in my new office… the San Francisco Bay! 

Even more good news -- the new job is only part-time for now, so yes, Dannyboy will also continue to travel!

My new office = a J24 and the San Francisco Bay!

When Nature Calls...Or Not

I love sailing for so many reasons, one of which is its connection to nature:  wind and rain; currents and tides; sun, stars, and moon; clouds and fog;  and marine life.  Nature is all around you, and in fact you depend on it for propulsion, direction, and in some cases survival.  The downside to this is we can’t always sail when and where we want to.  Sometimes we have to wait for Mother Nature to cooperate.   Crossing the South Pacific Ocean, we waited for days, even weeks, for the weather conditions to be favorable and safe.  Now, back in the Bay, I’m waiting again. 

My primary goal for 2017 is a yet-to-be-announced sailing activity that I need to be evaluated for, under certain wind-strength conditions.  This is what I’m waiting for.  Unfortunately, Mother Nature hasn’t cooperated yet, and my evaluation sail has been postponed several times due to light winds.   I’ve been riding an emotional rollercoaster as I psych myself up for the on-the-water test, but then have to put that excitement in check as the test gets postponed.    

(For those of you who might be wondering, the heavy rain we have had these last couple of weeks isn’t actually as big an issue when it comes to sailing.  We can and do sail in rain.)

So from the outside, I know it appears I'm not really doing anything, or going anywhere.  But this is the reality of sailing.  Sometimes you just have to wait it out for conditions to be right.    

That said, I haven't exactly been sitting idle.  I have made progress in other areas.

First, I researched and entertained a couple of opportunities to sail across the Pacific Ocean, from Mexico to Tahiti, in March/April.  In the end, I declined the offers, in favor of staying focused and committed to the evaluation noted above.  Why is this progress?  Because it gives me confidence that my sailing résumé (which I’ve posted online at various crew-finding websites) is gaining traction and visibility, now that I have over nearly 3,000 ocean miles under my belt.   It’s also available on my website here.

Second, I interviewed for a great volunteering opportunity at a horse- and dog-rescue operation in the Gilroy area (south of San Jose).  The owners were very friendly and offered me a one-bedroom apartment in exchange for my part-time help with facility upgrades and animal care.  It was a tempting offer, but I decided the location was too far away and the 80-hours per month commitment might be too restrictive on my travels.  I reluctantly declined, even though they specialized in my all-time favorite breed of dog:  Rhodesian Ridgebacks.

Third, I have racked up a lot of rewards points on my Hotels.com account (and less proudly, on my Chase credit card) as I have bounced around from hotel to hotel these last 4 weeks.  

Unfortunately, the other thing going on these last few weeks is I’ve been sick off and on with the cold/flu.  I’m guessing the cause (or at least a contributing cause) is the constant move from hotel room to hotel room.  I read somewhere that the hotel remote control is one of the dirtiest things ever.  Gross.  I now wipe it down before I touch it.  Admittedly, I’m guilty of going on a few rainy, cold sails too, which probably hasn’t helped either.

For the rest of February, I’ll be house-sitting for a couple of friends who have been nice enough to let me stay in their homes.   You know who you are -- Thanks!!

I'll be patiently waiting for Mother Nature to turn on her wind machine... while also working on some additional and/or alternative plans for 2017 depending on how things shake out.

 Enjoying a night sail... under a bridge, under a full moon, under a shooting star, and unfortunately, under the weather.  

The full moon was super bright.  

A highlight of my hotel stays:  The bed & breakfast at Point Montara lighthouse.  The signpost is a bit indicative of how I feel... so many directions and places I could go.  I'm doing my best to figure it out and get going!!

Heaving-To

Well, in non-sailing terms, you might say I'm "shifting to neutral."  (Heaving-to is actually a brilliant tactic in sailing that you can read about here:  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heaving_to)

It's been an exciting few months:  I explored Croatia by land and sea.  I crossed the South Pacific Ocean for the second time.  I road tripped over 1,200 miles along the California and Oregon coasts.  I was assaulted and robbed in Eureka, California.

Now, as 2017 kicks into gear, I am actually shifting to neutral.  Shifting to neutral not in terms of progressing toward my goals, but in terms of posting journal updates.  

I have a few things to figure out.  I'm talking to a couple of sailing and volunteering organizations about opportunities; and so as to not bore my handful of readers, I will be slowing down my posts.  I won't post weekly, but perhaps every two or three weeks -- trying as best I can to stick to Mondays.  Of course, given that it's Wednesday evening, I've already missed the deadline.  Or maybe I'm just really early for next Monday's update.  

Regardless, I hope you continue to check my site and read my posts from time to time.  I remain excited, optimistic, and committed to where this new path is taking me.  I can't wait to share more.

In the meantime, I'm happy to be "home" on the Bay... 

This picture reminds me that I am on a long-term trajectory to achieve some amazing life goals.  In the short term, my path may seem crazy or risky to some, but I have my eye on the horizon and know my heading. 

Why do I love sailboats so much?  This picture is from the Brisbane Marina.

 

 

 

 

Happy New Year!

After a 1,500-mile holiday road trip that was a little more exciting than I had planned (see "Dannyboy Troubles" post), I'm now back onto the streets of San Francisco.  Well, not literally on the streets - at least not yet.  This week I'll be house-sitting for some good friends in Mill Valley.  It should be a quiet, relaxing week which I will spend catching up on administrative things -- bills, taxes, computer backup, and perhaps some enhancements to my website.  I hope to finish a couple of DBT videos too.  All the while, I will have to fend off the two aggressively friendly cats in this house!

My 2017 plan is still a mystery to you... and to me.  But I'm working on it.  Stay tuned.  It will likely continue to be a medley of sailing, volunteering, and traveling.  But the exact activities and locations are TBD.  In 2016, I focused on accumulating richer experiences as a sailor:  I crossed the South Pacific Ocean twice, and skippered a two-week charter in Croatia.  This added nearly 3,000 sea miles to my sailing resume!  In 2017, I want to build on this foundation, with the goal in 2018 or 2019 of having a "career" sailing.  I don't know what that exactly means yet, but I hope it includes a bit of income. :-)

As always, I welcome any house-sitting or overnight crash-pad opportunities while I'm in the Bay Area.  And if you have a boat, then by all means, please contact me if you need crew!

Happy new year everyone!

Here are a few obligatory selfies from my road trip:

Dannyboy Troubles

After more than 20 years of international travel – most of the time by myself – I had to come back to California to get assaulted and robbed.   Fortunately, they walked away with only $100 cash in my fake wallet, and I walked away with only a few cuts and bruises.

I’m still in shock, but looking back at that evening a few days ago, I realize I got lazy and let my guard down.  I forgot that crime can happen to anyone, anywhere. 

I have visited rich countries and poor countries.  Within those countries, I have stayed in countless cities, towns, and villages:  some friendly, some not; some developed, some not; some overflowing with tourists, some not.

Even if I could afford it, staying at fancy hotels in the “good areas” or hiring a driver to take me around in a town car just isn’t my preferred travel experience.  I want to be amongst the locals.

As a result, during my travels I have certainly taken my share of chances with regard to safety.

I’ve explored cities known more for their trouble than for their tourist attractions.   I’ve visited the dirtiest dive bars and the most crowded discos.  I’ve walked home alone in the middle of the night.  Yes, I’ve even carried my camera on my shoulder and my (fake) wallet in my back pocket.

In all of my adventures, I’ve only had trouble a few times:  chased and cornered by thugs in Krakow, Poland; intimidated into handing over my ‘fake’ wallet in Buenos Aires, Argentina; tricked into over-paying a restaurant bill in Riga, Latvia (and again in Mexico City, Mexico).

Looking back at all the things that could have gone wrong, I guess I’ve been lucky…

…Until 10:30pm on Tuesday, December 20, 2016, in Eureka, California.

I was on a road trip from San Francisco to a few cities in Oregon to see family and friends for the holidays.  Having driven for most of the day, I stopped in Eureka for the night.

I picked a hotel close to the freeway for convenience.  I checked in, stored my bags in my room, and headed out to dinner on foot.  After driving all day, the walk felt good.

I chose a local steakhouse and savored a huge meal:  salad, rib-eye steak, fries, and onion rings.  After dinner, I took a walk through the holiday-decorated Old Town and then began the walk back to my hotel on the outskirts of town.

The sky was clear, the air was cool and crisp, and the street was dark and deserted.  I was actually kind of enjoying the quiet walk.   Nearly back to the hotel, I noticed two men leaning up against the building on my right. 

As I approached, one of them went to the curb and threw his cigarette butt into the street.  This forced me to walk between them, unless I crossed the street before I reached them.   But, being in California after traveling the world, I didn’t think much of the situation, and just proceeded down the sidewalk.

 “Spare a dollar?” asked the guy on my right. 

“No, dude.”  And I kept walking.

The next sequence of events happened so fast, I find it difficult to recount.   A fist came from the right and caught my upper lip, tearing it open.  I stumbled into the guy on my left who smacked me again, and down I went.  Stunned and shocked.

They took my wallet (full of crisp $20 bills from the ATM earlier that night) from my back pocket, and ran off.  Little did they know that this was my "fake" wallet.  My ID and credit cards were in a separate zippered pouch in my front pocket.

I sat there for a minute, still trying to process what just happened.  I couldn’t believe it.  I put my hand to my face, and felt the warm blood running down my lips and chin.  I tasted it in my mouth.

I got up and headed to my hotel room, where I cleaned myself up and inspected my wounds.  They didn’t look that bad:  a cut above my upper lip and a raspberry on my left cheek.  Both were bleeding, but after cleaning and applying some pressure, I stopped the bleeding.

At that point, I decided to just go to bed.  I didn’t think I needed immediate medical attention.  I could ask the hotel to call the cops but there was nothing they could really do now.  I would report the crime in the morning.

The next morning at 7:30 am I woke up on a bloody pillow.  I’d bled more overnight, apparently.  My cheek and upper lip were pretty swollen, too.  At this point, I decided to head to the Emergency Room to see a doctor.  Maybe I needed stitches after all.

I packed my bags, checked out, and headed to the local hospital.  The ER doctor examined me (including checking for a concussion) and said I didn’t need stitches. She gave me a tetanus shot, a penicillin boost, and a prescription for antibiotics.  Neither she nor the nurse seemed surprised when I recounted last night’s events.

I headed next to the police station to file a police report.  The officer did not look surprised at all.  He said the town has seen an increase in transients, drug users, and crime over the last few years.  

I’ve since done a little research on the town of Eureka, which seems to validate what the doctor and police office said.  It’s not the safest of town.  Crime is on the increase.

One of the sites I looked up is here:

https://www.neighborhoodscout.com/ca/eureka/crime/

This says that on a scale of 1 to 100 (100 being safest), Eureka is a 1.  The rate of robbery is 2x that of the national average.  The rate of assault is 25% higher than the national average.

Lucky to walk away from this experience, I have learned a few lessons that are good reminders to us all:

1)   Do your research.  Like visiting any new place, I should have done a bit of reading about Eureka before stopping there for the night.  I still might have stayed there, but I would have at least been more aware of what to expect and therefore taken more precautions (e.g., Lessons 3 and 4).

2)   Crime can happen anywhere to anyone.  There is no such thing as “back home, safe in California” which was my mentality.

3)   Avoid dark streets.  I shouldn’t have walked home alone on that dark street.  The street just two blocks over was a major thoroughfare and would have been more populated and better lit.  A taxi would have been the safest option, probably.  (However, there are some foreign cities where I would question the safety of the taxis at night!)  

4)   Assume the worst.  When I saw the two guys loitering, I should have avoided them by crossing the street or turning around.   

5)   My fake wallet works.  They got my cash, but not my credit cards or ID.

In the end, I know I was lucky.  The incident could have been much worse.   I’m not deterred from traveling.  I’m not scared of the night.  But, I certainly will put my guard back up and be more cautious when I’m traveling, and even when I'm staying local.

Be careful out there!

Back in my car, continuing my road trip after being assaulted and robbed.

Close-up of my wounds a couple of days after the incident.